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@100
Sorry for the long essay, there is a point to all this . . . . (!)
I like to ride big gears (I am currently on 48/14 and 48/15).
I have no argument against those who say this kind of gear ratio is far from efficient as they are basically right, but I just find lower gearing too spiny for me (I ride almost exclusively on the flat) and have always pushed gears at the taller end of the range + I love being able to really drag the bike up to some hair raising speeds, something my legs won't let me do on lower gearing, I simply haven't got the supplesse that some spinners have (I would come absolute dead last at a Rollapaluza).
So . . . all is good, I am happy with 48/14-15 been riding this gearing (give or take a tooth) for a couple of years - but as you can imagine controlling the rear wheel or skidding is not an easy task on a 90 inch gearing, the only way I can effect a skid is to lightly feather the front brake so the rear lifts and then I can lock my beautiful legs, and this can only be done at speed. Even bringing to bike to a controlled stop (without using the brakes) from a moderate speed is not an easy task at 90 G.I - (by way of reference I find it fairly easy on 46/16).
This got me thinking, it would be nice to have a large gearing to spin the bike up to horrific -check-your-life-insurance- speeds, whilst also have a low gearing to modulate your speed and to skid.
So I came up with the following idea and would like to run it passed the massive throbbing collective brain of Londonfgss.com to see if I am overlooking anything obvious that would put a spanner in the works ?
On the drive side of my bike I will put a drive side crank arm and a 48 tooth chain ring.
On the non-drive side I will put a drive side crank arm and a 42 tooth chain ring.
The rear hub will be a fixed/fixed Phil.
On the drive side of the rear hub I will put a 15 tooth freewheel.
On the non drive side I will put a 23 tooth freewheel
Being on the non drive side of the hub the 23 tooth freewheel will be reversed - it will freewheel when the cranks are driven forward and 'drive' when the cranks are turned backwards - the freewheel on the drive side will, obviously act normally, drive when driven forward and freewheel when reversed.
**Conclusion: **So forward pedaling gives me 48/15 (84.1 G.I.) and back pedaling gives me a 42/23 drive (48 G.I.), making it easier to modulate speed and even skid.
The only small problem I can see is that the non-drive side pedal will need to be reverse threaded and has the potential to unscrew itself, not a major problem.
But can anyone think of any other hindrances I have overlooked that will stop me from completing my evil 'EasySkid™' plan ?
?