Red anodised chainring bolts?

hey, does anyone know were i can get sets of 5 coloured anodized chainring bolts for a single ring crank ? dont need logos, just nice bolts.
keep peddalin'
s

ask roberto, ebay? there was a thread i made about this already, just have a search

http://www.londonfgss.com/thread6865.html

http://cgi.ebay.com/Alloy-Chainring-bolts-Set-Of-5-BRAND-NEW-Red_W0QQitemZ350083478987QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item350083478987&_trksid=p3286.m14.l1318

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=19227

hey, does anyone know were i can get sets of 5 coloured anodized chainring bolts for a single ring crank ? dont need logos, just nice bolts.
keep peddalin'
s

'tasty nuts' have green, blue, gold, silver, red, purple and black in stock.

http://www.tastynuts.com/site/frames/frameset_shoponline.htm

stay away from alloy chainring bolts (or alloy nipples), as they have a tendancy for breaking when trying to crank in some tension :(

'tasty nuts' have green, blue, gold, silver, red, purple and black in stock.

http://www.tastynuts.com/site/frames/frameset_shoponline.htm

could have sworn that tastynuts.blahblah was a wind up

chain reaction
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=19227
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=3320

stay away from alloy chainring bolts (or alloy nipples), as they have a tendancy for breaking when trying to crank in some tension :(

Torque wrench + alloy bolts = perfectly fine.

Road alloy bolts for years with no problems.

tynan
yo, i figured that chainring bolts in alloy would be ok........ crank bolts....no!
thanks for .....
s

stay away from alloy chainring bolts (or alloy nipples), as they have a tendancy for breaking when trying to crank in some tension :(

+1
I had the same issue with green ones. but you get what you pay for.

One tip if the bolt does crack when you tighten it, keep winding it through and out the otherside to clear the way for the second bolt

tynan
yo, i figured that chainring bolts in alloy would be ok........ crank bolts....no!
thanks for .....
s

Yes!! - definitely crank bolts !! In fact more so than chainring bolts.

I mount my cranks with a steel bolt so I can properly torque it down to the recommended torque setting (for a crank bolt ~50Nm).

Then once the cranks arms are on to the correct torque and have been left for at least an hour without being ridden (ask a metallurgist about metal 'bruising') - you can remove the heavy steel bolts as they are not holding the crank arms on, the inteference fit between the crank's sqaure bore hole and the spindle is what keep the cranks on.

Try it ! Take out your cranks bolts and ride your bike around, your cranks will stay where they are - this point is illustrated by the fact that to remove cranks from spindles even after we have removed the cranks bolts - takes special tools (and a little bit of effort).

You could ride around quite safely with no crank bolts once a crank arm has been properly installed - but incase your cranks squirm off the spindle, it's good to have something there to stop your cranks dropping off completely, an alloy crank bolt is a good choice if a light weight bike is your goal.

In summation, when you step on those cranks you are not putting any force (or negligibly so) on the crank bolts.

stay away from alloy chainring bolts (or alloy nipples), as they have a tendancy for breaking when trying to crank in some tension :(

dogballs is bang on here.
fuck the weight saving, go for strength in the form of steel or cromoly or whatever they call em ;)

edit] sry Tynan ! i don't trust alloy !

[edit] sry Tynan ! i don't trust alloy !

Ok.

Chicken.