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• #2
Front Wheel left right
2-cross 269.2 269.2
Rear Wheel
3-cross 277.5 276.1The rear results look to be for a non-symmetric hub - but the figures are very close anyway. Also socalc is generally found to be a bit long, so your numbers look good!
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• #3
DT swiss have a good rep.
recent thread on Spokes -
• #4
Dale doesn't rate it, but one of these has lasted 12 years and 6 wheelbuilds.
edit - 268mm is fine. -
• #5
Don't worry about being EXCATLY right on spoke lengths there is normally a 1/2mm tolerance either way as Dogs mentioned at the recent wheel-build classes. My spoke length was 281, but I easily acheived a decent(?) first build with 282mm.
Just get stuck in and don't fret too much, its a lot easier than it first seems.
*whilst I may have not answered any of your questions, I hope that helps...
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• #6
Dale doesn't rate it, but one of these has lasted 12 years and 6 wheelbuilds.
edit - 268mm is fine.
Agreed. Love these spoke keys. -
• #7
I couldn't find a Spokey (which i think is the tool above). So have been using the the park tools key.
It's fine, but you need to stick lumps of blu-tack or something in the 2 unused hole sizes, so while you work you don't keep using the wrong size and rounding off the nipples. -
• #8
Hi- I hope it is OK to butt in on this thread, I have a similar spoke length problem/lack of confidence...
I have rebuilt quite a few wheels, by using the same rim and hub, therefore just buying the same size spokes as previous (or even re-using existing spokes, if I have replaced rims like for like).
But this time I have a rim and just bought a hub and not at all confident that I am measuring the hub dims correctly. I keep getting varying results from different spoke calculators!My rim is a CXP14 and I have just bought one of these http://www.on-one-shop.co.uk/acatalog/HUOOLFTH32RBK.jpg, if someone would be kind enough to tell me exactly what to measure and how, or if by chance anyone knows the dim's already that would be great. I am going to build 3 cross pattern it will be 32 spokes.
Cheers
Gaz -
• #9
spocalc was accurate its spreadsheet. you need the excel application.
Hi mate,
I don't doubt the calculators are accurate- it's my measuring I don't trust. LOL
Gaz -
• #10
Bonjour,
I am about to lace my first wheel set. Velocity deep v + Dura-Ace 7600 hubs.
There is a spoke length calculator here http://www.bikeschool.com/spokes/I have these measurement so far:
wheel size: 700c- Effective Rim Diameter (ERD): 582
- Hub flange diamter: 120 front and 100 rear
- Number of spokes in the wheel: 36
Are these good? Something tells me I am completly wrong...
I miss these:
- Hub Center to Flange Center. What is that?
- Hub Spoke Hole Diameter. Not sure to be precise enough.
- Cross Pattern. What is the most common cross pattern?
Do you know about those measurements?
Help on that would be very much appreciated!
- Effective Rim Diameter (ERD): 582
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• #11
Search on Sheldon Brown's website. He knew all there was to know (or more than us anyway).
I think that's where I got definitions and measuring instructions.You'll need Flange Diameter, and to decide on your cross pattern (3 cross is most common)...
But best read about it from Sheldon's guides. -
• #12
- Hub Center to Flange Center. What is that?
Measure the distance between the two flange "edges" then divide by two.
- Cross Pattern. What is the most common cross pattern?
The most common cross pattern is two-cross for general purpose bicycles with rim brakes.
3 cross however is more suitable for withstanding/delivering torque from the hub.
This means it is good for rear wheels especially with a fixed gear, or wheels with hub brakes.
1 cross and radial are only suitable for the front wheel which does not use a hub brake.
- Hub Center to Flange Center. What is that?
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• #14
Hub centre to hub flange is simply that, the distance from the middle of the hub to the spoke flange ie if oln is 120mm then measure in 60mm from one of the locknuts and make a mark. This is the hub centre. Now measure from this mark back out to the flange. Or if your hub is symetrical as track hubs should be then measure between the flanges and divide by 2.
I wouldn't worry about spoke hole diameter too much, id enter a value of around 2mm.
Cross pattern is upto you. If you choose to go radial on the front it'd make that wheel a GOOD bit easier to build.
On the back the norm is either 3 or 4 cross.
When your doing any cross pattern getting it started right is the most important bit. On a size like 700c valve placement isnt such an issue but i like to get it right, the valve(hole) should sit in one of the big gaps between spokes - look at another wheel to see what i mean.
I lace all the inbound spokes on one side (start by putting a spoke in the hole beside the valve hole) then flip the wheel over and find the spoke hole in the hub flange that will mean you have a pair of spokes beside the valve hole rather than a pair with the valve hole between them.
Once you have laced all the inbounds on that side of the wheel you put in the outbounds for the first side, flip it over and twist these the hub and begin inter lacing. Make sure you twist the hub and spokes so that the pair of spokes beside the valve hole are angled away it.
Trying to think about this without actually doing it will just confuse you. The first few wheels i laced i did beside the computer continually checking against this website
http://www.gsportbmx.com/tech/guide_wheelbuilding.php
i know its a bmx site/wheel but i found it to be the easiest guide to follow. -
• #15
oh god, too much gobblygook there for me....
read Sheldon, in the link that "miro_o" kindly supplied -
• #16
All the measurements for your hub should be on the shimano website.
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• #17
I have the specs for that hub on my site
http://www.yogarup.com/wheels/hubs.php
I've measured them myself and build three wheelsets on them this year so you can rely on the specs.
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• #18
arup,
I used your site about a year ago when i built my first set of weeks. It was a great help thank you.
I had no idea you posted on this forum.
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• #19
Also ^great link^
A good, modern and up-to-date database of track hub chainlines... golddust!
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• #20
Hi, I'm just about to start my first wheel build (rear fixed) - just read Roger Musson's Wheel Building Guide PDF and I think I'm ready.
Just looking for a bit of advice on components though - seeing as it's my first build I don't want to spend too much on parts. Any recommendations? I've been looking at the Mavic Open Pros or CXP 33 but not sure about hubs or spokes?
Thanks for any advice
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• #21
go to sjs cycles website and get dt swiss double butted comp spokes. i think they do reasonably priced hubs too - eg zenith. make sure you buy double fixed hub.
both mavic rims you mentioned are a solid choice.
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• #22
cyclebasket.com are cheap for spokes and postage and they have a spoke length chart for zenith on mavic open pro/sport.
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• #23
Thanks for the suggestions - what do you reckon to these hubs?
As I said this is my first build so they don't have to be amazing
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• #24
just read Roger Musson's Wheel Building Guide PDF and I think I'm ready.
lol, you should be ready to conquer the world, according to roger the dodger.
anyway, the SJS hubs are reasonable enough, and you need to recoup some of the $9 wasted on d/ling that PDF
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• #25
Yeh £9 is a little pricey for a PDF but i's a good guide - I've already made my cardboard dishing tool and just making a nipple driver!
.