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• #27
I recently swapped saddles on my paddy wagon from the piece of crap WTB saddle. I stuck on a charge saddle and it yielded a somewhat more comfortable ride, although it feels a bit too wide atm. May try a narrow B17. This is a difficult subject though as saddle comfort is so subjective...
How about trying some 700c x 25's and letting some air out?
You chaps have been on road bikes too long.
My other bike, (dirt jumpy mtb thing) which I occassionally use for riding about aswell has 2.4 and 2.1 inch tyres on it.
Mtb slick tyres tend to be 1.5 and they look fairly skinny and roll fast.
I am sure you can get away with much fatter tyres than 25c basically,
go for 35's even, as under inflating a narrower tyre will lead to problems.
It will give you some give, even if the tyres are hard.
Aside from that, id say just roll with it.
Doing anything else would only bastardise your bike, you might aswell get an mtb if you want something more plush.
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• #28
Doubt the Bianchi has clearances for 700x35s...
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• #29
Titanium seatpost and stem. Though a stiff material, it has excellent vibration dampening qualities. One thing to remember, is not to attach one titanium object to another, as it can sometimes bind together, and it can take a miracle to release it. Your frame is chome molybdenum steel, so won't bind with titanium.
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• #30
moisturiser?
But everyone else on here is probably right- position.
Then think about tyres.
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• #31
Which shoulder are you getting pain in? What kind of backpack are you using? It may not be the bike at all! :)
both side, near to where the collarbone is at, I have a small leather satchel with me.
Change the tyres - the Contis that come on it as standard are awful tyres.
I rather like it actually, just let me skid the hell out of the Contis on it before switching back to the Bontrager one, it's cheap but grippy as hell.
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• #32
Htfu!
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• #33
Defo sounds like a positioning thing to me.
One point to note, that hasn't been directly mentioned, is that it's not just the handlebar position (both in terms of length and height, relative to the saddle), it's also your saddle position relative to the pedals. Your saddle wants to be not too far back, but far enough so that you can just take your hands off the bars and stay in balance without toppling forward. This way, your bum carries most of the load and your arms and thus shoulders don't have to work hard at all. Once the saddle is set, then the handlebars fall into place.
And, yes, 90psi in the tyres is a good idea!
Courant
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• #34
Defo sounds like a positioning thing to me.
One point to note, that hasn't been directly mentioned, is that it's not just the handlebar position (both in terms of length and height, relative to the saddle), it's also your saddle position relative to the pedals. Your saddle wants to be not too far back, but far enough so that you can just take your hands off the bars and stay in balance without toppling forward. This way, your bum carries most of the load and your arms and thus shoulders don't have to work hard at all. Once the saddle is set, then the handlebars fall into place.
And, yes, 90psi in the tyres is a good idea!
Courant
okay the balance/weight on saddle is a much better advice and much easier to do, brilliant, thank mate!
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• #35
im finding my pista a pain have a b17 now so i can walk straight , fitted a freewheel but it feels wierd its coming off and back to fixed tomoro , i need a stem or aybe riser bars are the answer
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• #36
smaller flange hubs, more spoke to flex
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• #37
im finding my pista a pain have a b17 now so i can walk straight , fitted a freewheel but it feels wierd its coming off and back to fixed tomoro , i need a stem or aybe riser bars are the answer
the original saddle is quite sore isn't it? going back to freewheel made the bike felt a lots looser, does that make sense?
if you got any old handlebar lying around, swap those around, see how comfortable it is, before buying one thought, riser tend to be a hit or miss.
mind you it's idea to change the original drop bar since it's pretty much a heavy track bar, not exactly comfortable on road.
The best book for bike positioning (and general cycling health advice) is Andy Pruitt's Complete Medical Guide for Cyclists. He's generally considered the best in the world for cycle fit and gait analysis and the book has several chapters on how to fit the bike to you. Highly recommended. I think you can pick up copies on-line for about £5-8.