The LFGSS family photo

did you guys see the pic of the ride event tonight? brilliant!

there's an auditotrium in the middle of finsbury park that's probably big enough

there's an auditotrium in the middle of finsbury park that's probably big enough

Looks good.

even then fat hipsters will not be able to stand that close together, plus some will want their bikes in the shot so it will knock your resolution back a bit.
i would say 5x4 or a 39mpixel digital back as a minimum. less than 300 people and 20mpixel would suffice.
but who would actually want a big print of this?

i've got some great pics somewhere of my great granddad's cycling club all together in about 1910. i'll try and find them.
he rode fixed as well!

even then fat hipsters will not be able to stand that close together

Yeah, I was thinking the same to be honest, not only that but for this kind of clarity everyone would be perfectly lit, crammed together, shadowless, looking at the camera, with make up and standing perfectly still.

It was more of a vague guide to what 300 heads squeezed together on 10MP might resolve like - which backs up your original point, you will not get away with a 10 or 12MP pro-sumer camera.

plus some will want their bikes in the shot so it will knock your resolution back a bit.
i would say 5x4 or a 39mpixel digital back as a minimum. less than 300 people and 20mpixel would suffice.
but who would actually want a big print of this?

Wouldn't a face amongst 300 be reduced to a clump of grain on a 5x4 ?

think how many times bigger a 5x4 is than 35mm.
if i was shooting it i would use a fuji 6x17 which is wider than the 2x 6x7 frames in the pic.
(half sheet 10x8 (so 10x4) would be better, where you mask half the back off and rotate the film after each shot but you need a changing bag for that which slows the shot rate down)

"http://www1.istockphoto.com/file_thumbview_approve/3615573/2/istockphoto_3615573_transparency_film_frames.jpg"

if you used a shift lens on a 12-16mp camera (like the 90mm i have for my canon) you could in theory get a near 30mpixel image but you would get problems stitching because of people moving and the time it takes to shift.
CS3 has a really good auto stitching feature so if you quickly shot a left/center/right frame it would join seamlessly and deal with any parallax errors (as long as people didn't move too much)

Before you two reach climax over this thrilling photographic dilemna, I think you are dreaming about getting 300 forumers together in one place, especially for a photo op. 100 maximum, and then only if you supply free beer and the chance to win a free track frame or something.

if you were blowing up massively youd need to view from further back, how much detail are we really going to need? i rekon it would be fine off a 1ds or similar, ive got a mk.2 but a mk.3 would obviously be better, goes without saying if anyones got a leaf or phase we should just use that.

Before you two reach climax over this thrilling photographic dilemna, I think you are dreaming about getting 300 forumers together in one place, especially for a photo op. 100 maximum, and then only if you supply free beer and the chance to win a free track frame or something.

if you book them they will come

"http://www1.istockphoto.com/file_thumbview_approve/3615573/2/istockphoto_3615573_transparency_film_frames.jpg"

if you used a shift lens on a 12-16mp camera (like the 90mm i have for my canon) you could in theory get a near 30mpixel image but you would get problems stitching because of people moving and the time it takes to shift.
CS3 has a really good auto stitching feature so if you quickly shot a left/center/right frame it would join seamlessly and deal with any parallax errors (as long as people didn't move too much)

Where you position the camera on the tripod with regard to the pivot point should address any parallax problems shouldn't it ? By that I mean you can set it up so parallax is not an issue to be resolved in post (I could be wrong here ???).

Anyhow, it will never be perfect, people will always move or start talking to the person next to them, so fuck it, the picture would be as good as it is.

[Edit]I might not have go the right idea with your 'shift lens' I was just thinking of panning the camera through three separate exposures ??

me and tynan are having a healthy discourse on the merits of one format over another so that whoever the 'photographer' is who gets to take the photo will have some idea of what he's dealing with. (believe it or not i do know what i'm talking about)

I couldn't give a toss if it actually happens or not as I will not be in the photo or taking it.

"Where you position the camera on the tripod with regard to the pivot point should address any parallax problems shouldn't it ? By that I mean you can set it up so parallax is not an issue to be resolved in post (I could be wrong here ???)."

if you know the nodal point of your lens and use a nodal slide to pivot the lens around this point then it isn't a problem, if you use a long lens it's less of a problem.

What is the highest (digital) resolution you can get your hands on thee days (to hire) ?

if you know the nodal point of your lens and use a nodal slide to pivot the lens around this point then it isn't a problem, if you use a long lens it's less of a problem.

There are a couple of tricks you can do to find the nodal point through the lens, but I think it is marked on most cameras (I am thinking of the circle with the line through it ?)

Phase one p45 and H/blad H3D-39 both use the same 39mpixel chip about £350 a day.
Teamwork hire the seitz roundshot which i think is 40 something mpix but i think it's a scanning system so no movement allowed

There are a couple of tricks you can do to find the nodal point through the lens, but I think it is marked on most cameras (I am thinking of the circle with the line through it ?)

no that's the film plane, nodal point is somewhere in the lens (i think it may change in a zoom lens)

Ah !!

Yes you are quite right, it's the film plane !

I guess the nodal point must be where the light crosses before hitting the film plane, so it would, of course, be the lens side of the film plane. (?)

Should be easy enough to work out where it is and rotate a multi exposure around that point to avoid too much parallax.

boys, boys. I have a 1Ds - mark 1 so only 11MP, but hooked up to a 20mm prime on full-frame, it'll be more than fine. to avoid parallax, there's a cool tool for linux only, called hugin.

when and where? I suggest somewhere appropriate to cycling rather than somewhere random, context is everything. If it's close to polo, I can even bring along a ladder. suggest we do some test shots there and see how it goes?

35mm TAT.

southbank, taken from the bridge?

har har! now someone's not going to be in the photo...

35mm TAT.

what i call 'dirty five mil'

pfffft.... think i have a puncture :-(

nice portfolio btw, mr smith