Another technique is to briefly straighten out in the apex of the corner which brings the bike up a little - useful for off camber roads where you are more likely to strike a pedal. I used to use 165s and now use 170s on my bikes and have only had one pedal strike in four years of riding fixed. That was when I turned into a road that also had a speed bump in it so went over the bump while leaned over. Just scraped the pedal a little and scared me a bit! Mind you all my bikes have pretty high BBs as they are either track or cyclo cross frames.
As everyone has said you need a frame with a reasonably high BB and shorter cranks than with a freewheeled bike (which also helps you spin at higher cadences). Pedal choice makes a difference too - that's why track cage pedals don't have a cage over the end, unlike similar road pedals. Most clipless pedals will give slightly better clearance than traditional pedals.
Another technique is to briefly straighten out in the apex of the corner which brings the bike up a little - useful for off camber roads where you are more likely to strike a pedal. I used to use 165s and now use 170s on my bikes and have only had one pedal strike in four years of riding fixed. That was when I turned into a road that also had a speed bump in it so went over the bump while leaned over. Just scraped the pedal a little and scared me a bit! Mind you all my bikes have pretty high BBs as they are either track or cyclo cross frames.
As everyone has said you need a frame with a reasonably high BB and shorter cranks than with a freewheeled bike (which also helps you spin at higher cadences). Pedal choice makes a difference too - that's why track cage pedals don't have a cage over the end, unlike similar road pedals. Most clipless pedals will give slightly better clearance than traditional pedals.