Chain tension and tensioning a chain

no, not like wheelnuts ;)

What sequence do you use when bolting your wheels on, dogs?

Do you work on the front and rear axles independently or count all four nuts together?

Sorry to add yet another topic on this one, but I cant find the answer to this one anywhere. I've split the chain at what seemed like the right length, refitted it, and it looks reasonable, but when I pull the wheel as far back in the drop outs as poss the chain doesn't become so tight that it binds (I read in Sheldon that to be sure to get the right tension it's best to get it too tight, then loosen off slightly). I could take another link of the chain out, but I don't want it to be too short because putting links back in is tricky I seem to remember. Could I get away with taking another link out, or should I keep it as it is?

i am no expert but i think you need to remove a link and if desperate use a half link. horizontal dropouts or track?

You want to keep the chain tight at it's slackest point.

Check tension through a full rotation of the cranks.

I'd aim to set the axle at the midpoint of the dropout if poss.

Why not hold the chain up (like it was joined) but with one link drooping out of the way and see if it will work minus another link??!

hippy Why not hold the chain up (like it was joined) but with one link drooping out of the way and see if it will work minus another link??!

how the fnck would you know that?? huh, huh?

OK, thanks for the advice, the consensus seems to be that it could do with one less link. it's got horizontal drop outs, and there's not a huge amount of variation in placing available probably about 1.5 - 2 cm fore/aft. But that should probably do it, cheers

31t®um [quote]hippy Why not hold the chain up (like it was joined) but with one link drooping out of the way and see if it will work minus another link??!

how the fnck would you know that?? huh, huh?[/quote]

Ha! You thought I was mechanically inept :P

still do :)

Just coz I don't own a hammer! Pfft!

Bashenger

yup, dat's me,
and bigfuckoffscrewdriverenger!

sorry to resurrect this topic, but the chain tension is still not perfect. I didn't actually take any more links off, and it was fine for a few days. But after changing the rear tyre I can't seem to get the chain as tight as before, even with the axle as far back as it'll go (maybe the chain just stretched a bit as it was new out of the box?). However, on my SRAM chain I can't take just one link out, it has to be two because otherwise the two ends won't fit together with the fastener link things. Could I get away with two do you think?

im all for DIY... but if you are having problems with it still, might be best to take to to you LBS

James1822 sorry to resurrect this topic, but the chain tension is still not perfect. I didn't actually take any more links off, and it was fine for a few days. But after changing the rear tyre I can't seem to get the chain as tight as before, even with the axle as far back as it'll go (maybe the chain just stretched a bit as it was new out of the box?). However, on my SRAM chain I can't take just one link out, it has to be two because otherwise the two ends won't fit together with the fastener link things. Could I get away with two do you think?

you can buy a half link at hubjub.co.uk

^or Condor.
Taking out that pair of links will shorten the chain by an inch, which will move your axle forward roughly half an inch.
Go on Ja-Mes.

How loose is it? How far does the chain move up and down in the middle at its loosest point?

about 1.5 cm at the loosest point and it's actually quite tight at the tightest point. there is nothing noticeable when riding or if you look at the chain from the side it looks straight and not slack.

1.5 up AND down or just in one direction? Doesn't sound too bad to me.
If you push the chain hard sideways while rotating the cranks (mind your fingers!), does the chain look like it will slip off the chainring? It shouldn't.

James1822 about 1.5 cm at the loosest point and it's actually quite tight at the tightest point. there is nothing noticeable when riding or if you look at the chain from the side it looks straight and not slack.

problem:
ovalised chainring

solution:
new chainring

sorted.

Just in one direction (up), i've pushed the chain in while turning the cranks and it doesn't look like it's going anywhere.

new solution:
HTFU

Then I would ride it and keep an eye on tension. My chain gets fscking slack some times and I tell myself "must sort that" and i get around to it eventually.
If it looks like it will come off the chainring or cog when pushed sideways I'd tighten it. Cheap bike? Don't bother with new chainrings coz the next one you get will probably have the same issue, perhaps to a lesser or greater extent.

Hello

Wondered if I could get a bit of advice re; chain tugs and correct tension when riding fixed wheel.

I got a Surly chain tug I am going to fit to my bike but just wanted to ask the best procedure-any tips and most importantly what kind of tension do I look for in my chain?

Many thanks

hold your bike above your head and shake it (bike not head). if chain does not fall off then it is tight enough.