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@ssk
Apparently they have pretty awesome Critical Masses...I don't think it's every month, but the guy I stayed with
(from Warm Showers the tourers directory), had amazing footage of thousands of folks hoisting their bikes in the air. WS is great- meant we had a free place to crash and met a great local cyclist who showed us around on bike, knew the bike stores... I'm pretty sure he'd be up for recommending you some places at least, if you want his email, I'll check.
Definitely check out the flea market- there is an old guy who had some super nice old frames, and generally there are a couple other stands with interesting (and cheap) stuff.
Getting in and out of that city is hell- but if you can, the foothills to the north east, are amazing- and wine country... not a problem just camping out around there.