Anyone done this, does it turn out alright..

What's the raw finish like underneath?

Thanks in advance.

Sticky tape on cxp33's

had enough of the pink flatlander?

in answer to your question i haven't the foggiest. would be interesting to know

they make crome ones.. i would hazard a geuss that underneath its unfinished dull metal with heat marks around the weld.

Swap em with someone.

@ jonny
A tad, they seemed a good idea at the time...
It's only because I see Courier with a set of non-anodised/unpainted today.
Got me wondering whether I could get that buff finish...I must say they looked mighty fine.
I have the NitrO Mors ready hehe

chris crash they make crome ones.. i would hazard a geuss that underneath its unfinished dull metal with heat marks around the weld.

This is what I thinkin, and what the oxidisation too..

no welds, just pinned

Nitromors
80 Grit
120 Grit
220 Grit
240 Grit
320 Grit
400 Grit
600 Grit
1000 Grit
1500 Grit
2000 Grit
Buff

Clear Lacquer

It will take many hours. Use wet n dry. It will help keep the dust down. Sand in a opposite direction for each grade. Sand until all scratches from each grade are gone. Then move to the next finer grade. Repeat this process using finer and finer grades until you get the finish you want. If you are not after a chrome finish, then you could get away with half of the above grades. You need to seal it with either a clear lacquer or get them anodized, otherwise they will oxidize.

Once I tried to remove the anodising from a pair of metallic blued deep Vs I didn't fancy too much and wanted to turn into chrome. Plenty of caustic soda and two hours soaking and no success whatsoever. Even tried to sand it a bit. The anodising was tough like hell. So I gave up and decided to paint the frame in blue to match the rims. Surprised because with stems, seat posts, and cranks it just takes 20 mins and the anodising comes off with a light rubbing and the results, once the pieces is buffed, are pretty alright.

PS too late, as the previous post says sand paper is the way to go......

Edd 13 Once I tried to remove the anodising from a pair of metallic blued deep Vs I didn't fancy too much and wanted to turn into chrome. Plenty of caustic soda and two hours soaking and no success whatsoever. Even tried to sand it a bit. The anodising was tough like hell. So I gave up and decided to paint the frame in blue to match the rims. Surprised because with stems, seat posts, and cranks it just takes 20 mins and the anodising comes off with a light rubbing and the results, once the pieces is buffed, are pretty alright.

Oven cleaner. Problem is It's hard to control. Spray it in a cup and use a brush.

Build Nitromors
80 Grit
120 Grit
220 Grit
240 Grit
320 Grit
400 Grit
600 Grit
1000 Grit
1500 Grit
2000 Grit
Buff

Clear Lacquer

It will take many hours. Use wet n dry. It will help keep the dust down. Sand in a opposite direction for each grade. Sand until all scratches from each grade are gone. Then move to the next finer grade. Repeat this process using finer and finer grades until you get the finish you want. If you are not after a chrome finish, then you could get away with half of the above grades. You need to seal it with either a clear lacquer or get them anodized, otherwise they will oxidize.

WOW! What an amazing finish! All that hard work has certainly paid off!

Yeah, shit loads of work into that Build :O looks awesome

eeehhhh Yeah, shit loads of work into that Build :O looks awesome

It's not mine. Just an example image. To polish aluminum like that just takes time.

just a thought, would it not be possible to use fact that its a wheel and it spins to help sand it? maybe some for of mount then use sand paper attached to a drill and let it do most of the work?

sex.

with the dura-ace hub as well...

i've just built up a pair of chrome deep v's onto chrome phils, looks awesome!!!

dogsballs i've just built up a pair of chrome deep v's onto chrome phils, looks awesome!!!

Pix?

not yet, only did it last wed. will try to remember to take camera home.

Did you track down some chromed spokes to go on those? PIMP.

only shiny stainless steel, although getting some for the other wheelset ;)

Same theory as this again....
But I have heard that flatter surfaces are harder to get consistent.
http://www.bikeforums.net/showpost.php?p=3677840&postcount=38

CTA in Sydney were polishing rims and building up some nice wheels. Someone on here had a set.. socialamnesia.. oh, not the polished ones.

http://chainringtransitauthority.com/cta_blog/?cat=13

I watched a clip once of a guy using chocolate to polish the concave bottom of a coke (other brands of cola are available) can to make it into a concave mirror for firelighting using sunlight. A bit of Dairy Milk (I don't mind committing to one chocolate brand, Dairy Milk's awesome) may be the answer.

Charged up the camera last night. Here is a picture of mine. I machined down the step on the braking surface to give a more uniform profile ala Campy Atlanta 96.

2 days of sanding/polishing per wheel. I now have Alzheimer's. Seriously use a dust mask.