Help me please.

so ok.

I went fixed and was really loving it. climbing was a bit harder but once i got the knack it was quite fun and not only that i left them all for dead. Descending is still a talent that is being cultivated...

now on thursdays club ride. I had my first puncture. Well infact four punctures all in the back wheel. The result of all this is that the bolts supplied with this paddywagon are REALLY soft and even though i was using box spanners they started to get rounded off. Ive had to file them...

Not only that but i cant seem to refit the wheel with the same tension in the chain. no matter what i try after ive tighten up the nuts, the chain is slack...help. i take it there is a trick to it....

cheers
tiktok

forgot to add.

is there a way of puting QR in a fixed hub?

do up the left hand wheel nut first then pull the wheel towards the right hand chain stay and do the right nut up

Have you considered using chain tugs? Then you don't need to do up the nuts so tightly and risk stripping the threads. You can also get the tension a lot more precise and maintain it for longer.

Arup,

Sorry to seem dim, but what are chain tugs. i'm currently googling it now..

tiktok

A QR is a very bad idea on a fixed back wheel.

I had the 07 Paddy Wagon.

If you're buying chaintugs you'll need something like the Surly/On-One type. The dropouts are thick and short, so MKS etc are a non-starter.

The track nuts on the Formula hub are made of cheese. You can score Dura -Ace replacements from Hubjub for a tenner.

sorry if this isn't what you wanted, but isn't it better to get new nuts and a better spanner? one of those ones that fits all the way around the bolt is what i have, and i can get decent enough chain tension without stripping the sides of the nuts at all.

EDIT: and kevlar tyres to avoid the punctures? ;-)

Formula tracknuts.

Left taken off front, right from rear.

Less than a year old.

i agree the formula nuts are shit but it does seem like you need a better wrench, i've got the same hubs and never had any problem with rounding of the nuts.

Good tip for tensioning chain when putting rear wheel back on:

Wedge a piece of cloth (usually my cloth tool bag) between seat tube and wheel by putting in on tyre and turning wheel toward BB. Once you have the wheel in correct position you can tighten wheel nuts w/o worrying about losing tension. Much less faff than Sheldon's method.

Ooh! Like the cloth technique. Long been a fan of the 'walking' method, but I'll try this next time…
Thanks for that.

Depends on yer clearances.

If you've a bit of fresh air twixt wheel and seat tube use a tennis ball.

Either is easier than the "walking" malarkey.

Just use your fingers (wedge 'em between tyre and seat tube) to push the wheel back and the other arm to swing the wrench/allen.

mightyMouse Good tip for tensioning chain when putting rear wheel back on:

Wedge a piece of cloth (usually my cloth tool bag) between seat tube and wheel by putting in on tyre and turning wheel toward BB. Once you have the wheel in correct position you can tighten wheel nuts w/o worrying about losing tension. Much less faff than Sheldon's method.

+1

I use a tea towel.

Sheldonger.

Get a proper spanner, do not use a box spanner. I needed 14 stitches put in my arm when I snapped one doing exactly tightening bolts on a rear-fixed a few years ago.

tiktok Arup,

Sorry to seem dim, but what are chain tugs. i'm currently googling it now..

tiktok

Chain tugs fit in your drop outs, the rear axle goes through them and they stop the wheel drifting forward from the force of the chain pulling on the rear wheel.

Hope that makes sense !

tynan [quote]tiktok Arup,

Sorry to seem dim, but what are chain tugs. i'm currently googling it now..

tiktok

Chain tugs fit in your drop outs, the rear axle goes through them and they stop the wheel drifting forward from the force of the chain pulling on the rear wheel.

Hope that makes sense !

[/quote]
Those DMRs won't fit on the Paddy.

Paddy dropouts are about 7mm wide and 30mm long.

You need a tug that sits outside of the dropout that can't foul the tracknut.

Or a better spanner.

You also shouldn't be using chaintugs to hold the axle. The track nuts should be doing (most of) the work. So, if your nuts are fscked, don't just whack tugs on and hope it all stays together.. sort your nuts first.

I agree entirely, HipFlask.

Sticking a washer/tug twixt tracknut and dropout seems to go against the design specifications for both items.

But the Surly Tuggnut and similar designs do just that.

thanks for the tips guys.

certainly given me a push in the right direction....

ime certainly a fixie convert now....

tiktok