Cassette hub to single speed to tide me over

Can anyone help. I'm in the process of saving for a new rear wheel - the ones on ebay seem to go for silly money when you compare the price of new. I'm looking to strip the gears of the cassette hub that I'm currently using and using it as single speed (freehub not suicide). Does anyone have any experience as to the lock rings? On a Shimano style hub it is the last cog - is this correct? Can you buy a lock ring instead of using the last cog? I've got a load of spacers from old cassettes so the chain line shouldn't be too much of an issue. Just want to get the ruddy dérailleur off the back! Any useful advice would be greatly appreciated.
Cheers

Anthony

I just used the original cog/lockring. Nae bother.

the shimano cassette hubs i have dealt with the lockring was separate, i.e not the smallest cog. you can then slip spacers on and a chosen sprocket and that's that. have you tried removing it yet? you will soon find out. it is an easy job as long as you have the right tool

edit - as prav says - you can then use the original lockring

I have the proper little tool. I haven't wielded it in anger yet though. Do you actually need a chain whip or can you rotolock the wheel suitably to get the cassette off?

i've only ever done this using a chainwhip - i imagine there must be some ways to improvise though if you don't have the whip.

Theoretically you could use rotafix?
I used a chain wrapped around the largest cog, put the wheel on the floor and stand on the chain with the wheel wedged against my foot. but I'm an arse. :-)

why take the cogs off, more effort then its worth if your buying a new wheel.

Cause it'll look prettier

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rotafix

I read some where about some one using a peace of webbing (like a long strap) wrapped round a section of the rim with a knot in the other end then the webbing force between two cogs. Now when you start trying to undo the lock nut the freewheel will spin but it will have the webbing jamed between the cogs. Once all the slack is wound round the cogs you will have a secure casset which to torque against and undo the locknut.

wolflore On a Shimano style hub it is the last cog - is this correct?

As far as the lock ring goes it is only the last cog on some old hubs (really quite old I think, maybe 1st generation?). If you have one of these types of hubs you will need two chain whips. Or one and use the webbing method above to secure the main casset and the chain whip on the lock ring cog.

Cheers Tommy
Its a fairly new one so I should be ok.
Anthony

For Flip

Got it off though the rotalok method is tricky and you risk damaging your rims cause you have to do it out of the frame! Make sure you have good spacers without any bobbly bits on. This caused me a hold up. Took about 2 hours in all. You'll need a cassette removal tool, adjustable spanner, preferably a chain whip or try Tommy's method but attach to the frame not the rim. Oh, and a couple of small spanners and allen keys for removing the old dérailleur.

Good luck

Anthony (now single speed - 42:13)

cheers, anthony, will have a look at it when it stops raining, as there's no space to work in my flat. how are you finding that ratio?

It's not too bad. A tad high I'm led to believe. It seems to suit me though on the flat and the hills I do come across only need me to 'get up' occaisionally! With a head wind I'm working hard. And don't even ask about hill starts, I hate having to work back up on a hill, but it doesn't kill you. I've been riding around at this ratio for about 6 months now, its why I wanted to switch, I just don't use the gears.

Anthony

On shimano style freehubs, there is a seperate lockring that locks against the last cog (11/12/13 tooth, depending on the cassette). I converted an old MTB freehub to single speed by just using spacers from two old cassettes and I hacksawed the teeth off the last cog before filing them down to nothing. It made the whole assembly better looking than with odd cogs here and there but it still looked strange compared to a proper track hub. It worked great though, and you can adjust the position of the sprocket to get a perfect chainline.

See http://www.sheldonbrown.com for info and a picture of what to expect.

Are there any downside to mod'ing a cassette hub rather than using a proper track hub? other than it look better?