Lockring threading is screwed... advice please

My lockring threading is screwed. When I skidd harshly the lockring jumps off the hub !
Help Guys ! What can be done ?
New wheel/hub ? Loctite ?
I do have a flip-flop hub so could I use the freewhell side for suicide set up ?
advise much appreciated

is the thread on the hub or the lockring screwed???

31trum is the thread on the hub or the lockring screwed???

on the hub... I tried a new lockring

new hub then..........sorry

this happened to me. I took it back to the shop and got a new hub and the wheel 'handbuilt' (spoke broke within a month).

Anyhow, the root cause of the whole thing was the cheap-ass stock pista lockring cracked, which demolished the thread. So I would advise adding a decent lockring to your list of new stuff to buy.

hope this helps

I have a flip-flop hub with the freewheel side still being prestine
could I use that side screw the sprocket on and counter with the
Adapter part of the miche sprocket to counter it.
(In engineering countertightning of a nut is always done on the same thread)
Could I skidd with that setup ?

There's no reverse thread so when the cog unwinds it will take the "lockring" (adapter) with it.
I wouldn't skid with that setup.

well you can skid with it couple of times.............locktite on both lockring and sprocket .....ive seen quite a few people riding on a suicide hub.......and they are still alive........personally i wouldnt......aha...are u brakeless???? if no then the front brake is always there:-) and i would have used old BB lockring instead of the miche carrier.........

StarrerGang (Danzel)
(In engineering countertightning of a nut is always done on the same thread)
Could I skidd with that setup ?

yeah. I never got this either. One time I was stripping the cylinders off a marine diesel engine. They were held in place by these big bits of metal studding. One one stuck so to get it off we threaded on two nuts and applied serious amounts of torque to the lower one, including whacking it with a hammer (thus applying 'shock' forces, presumably similar to skidding). The upper one didnt move at all. And as I understood it, this technique is used reliably in other situations as well (as suggested above).

Now, Im not advocating it, and a proper fixed lockring will always be better. But I do wonder why counterthreading like this doesnt hold up with bikes.

Flipside, if the lockring is not secure, and the loctite is doing the work, then why use a lockring at all?

how come no-one has mentioned cock-ring yet?! oops, me bad :)

Shit.. we're slipping.. into double figures before dick jokes were mentioned. Shape up!

If you rota fix on your cog really really really tight then especially with a b.b lock ring and thread lock you should be fine (but run a brake just incase)

By using the rotafix method you are getting the same amount to leverage as will be applied by skidding and hopefully unless you are really weak more force and hence more torque. OS in theory every thing should be swell. However skidding force are not applied evenly by their very nature, there can be a sudden snap, causing a greater amount of inertia to be placed on the cog. However most peoples legs give way a little during the first instance of the skid thus reducing this inertia. Another factor may the fact that most cogs are hardened steel and more hubs are alloy so maybe the shock can cause damage to the non hardened alloy threads. I am less sure about this, not really too familiar with metalology and stuff.

Draw your own conclusions.

scoober [quote]StarrerGang (Danzel)
(In engineering countertightning of a nut is always done on the same thread)
Could I skidd with that setup ?

yeah. I never got this either. One time I was stripping the cylinders off a marine diesel engine. They were held in place by these big bits of metal studding. One one stuck so to get it off we threaded on two nuts and applied serious amounts of torque to the lower one, including whacking it with a hammer (thus applying 'shock' forces, presumably similar to skidding). The upper one didnt move at all. And as I understood it, this technique is used reliably in other situations as well (as suggested above).

Now, Im not advocating it, and a proper fixed lockring will always be better. But I do wonder why counterthreading like this doesnt hold up with bikes.

Flipside, if the lockring is not secure, and the loctite is doing the work, then why use a lockring at all?[/quote]

yeah , thats where my thought comes from. I worked on a shipyard in Hamburg..
on a ship engines mainly. one comes across this all the time. And I think a engine shakes a lot more
than a skid. I will go an give it a try and of course I run a brake.
Personally I do not understand why not all cogs simply get screwed on the hub with six bolts.
Thats the strongest releasable connection there is in mechanics...

I probably will only use it till Kiwi gets the open pros back in stock :)

if the only option is replacing the hub why not just thread it on the freewhell with a bunch of hard-core loctite and the BB Lockring so that it NEVER comes off.

you will be stuck with that gearing / sproket but thats cheaper than replacing the hub. swap out the hub later on...

I rode a Suicide Hub for a while without any loctite. - It wasn't secure enough for Skidding - I could never get the BBlockring to screw down hard enough.
you can also use a thin shim between the sprocket and Lockring to get more outward force on the threads.

Howabout make a pretend nylock nut - stick a thin layer of nylon between the rotafixed cog and the lockring, it should compress and keep it there nicely. Or it might not, I dunno.