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@Max
Is your chainline spot on? You can check it by measuring - a straight ruler from the centre of the seat tube to the centre of the chainwheel gives the front chainline (varies but normally 40 - 46mm). If your rear spacing is 120mm then measure from the inside face of the right frame dropout to the centre of the cog and subtract this from 60. ie 60-16 = 44mm. The two measurements ideally want to be within 1mm.
If all this is too much faff then crouch down and sight from behind through the cog and chainwheel - easy to see if the chain is going to one side.
As above the chain wants about 1/2" of movement at the *tightest *spot - you will (unless very lucky) have tight and loose spots, adjust the 1/2" for a loose spot and it may be too tight at a tight spot.
Lastly make sure the chain is a decent one, not worn and you are using a quality dry lube.
If all this is done your drivetrain really should be virtually silent more so with 3/32 than 1/8.
If the headset is really not too loose then don't make it bind up just to stop the bars turning - all this will do is 'index' the bearings and make it all notchy.