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@TheBrick(Tommy)
Put the bolt back in to the quill stem so that the threads have started but the bolt is still proud. Hit is with a hammerand you should feel it drop down. This will have realised the quill.
Now if the stem is still tight within the fork let some oil trickle down between the fork and stem then place a wheel in the forks or if you don't have one use a long length of wood.
Stand with the wheel between your legs and twist the handle bars, if it is still tight get somone to help you.
If it is really bad replace the wheel with a length od 2 x 4 place right at the top of the fork crown, this will minimise the torque on the fork legs but allow someone to hold the wood solid (or jam it some where solid) with it's extra leavaerage and to gether with twisting the bars this should get the stem twisting. One it's moving keep it moving and it will eventually with some upward pulling some out. I have never failed to unstick a stem using this method and by keeping the wood right up near the fork crown you will not bend your forks.
Cranks if they are cotterless (look this up in Sheldon if you don't know) then yes you will need a crank puller. However you seem to have manage to get one off already which make me think you may have cottered cranks. If you can not get the cotter pin out of the drive side crank you may need to drill it out. Replacement cotter pins do not cost much.
As far as removing the spindle remember that the drive side cup will prob be left hand thread.
When you rebuild the bike check the bearings to see if they are pitted. If they are take an example of each size to a bike shop and buy replacements for the entire race. Also be cearful of the cages which hold some bearingthey can become twisted, if they are jus tack them out and replace then bearings adding in a few more to make up for the extra space. A bic biro pen lid with a little geace on the end is ver useful for handelling small bearings.