Genesis Flyer - bad fit?

Hi all,

I thought I was happy with my Flyer (apart from chainline issues - see other threads) until I took it out for my first long-ish ride this weekend.

I'm noticing that a lot of my weight is on my hands/wrists - I know this isn't good.

I have my Brooks B17 set as far back as possible, and have inverted the stock stem so that it points upwards.

The frame size is 54, and I'm 5'10"

My nads just clear the top-tube!

Have I bought the wrong size frame? Any larger then I'm sure my nads would complain at the lights, or would a longer stem help?

I new to all this stuff after a few years break so please be gentle.

I had a similar problem on a Bianchi Pista I test rode - is this a feature of track geometry?

Thanks!

John

try a longer stem, fit is very important if you are going to go any distance.
1cm can make a big difference in comfort i found going from a 100 to a 110 stopped me from riding with my lower back bent and i was always shuffling around trying to get comfortable but with the longer stem each position felt spot on.
i do switch between the drops/tops/hoods a lot which stops any discomfort but the fashion for track bars and a bmx brake levers means most people stick to one position which IMHO is where a lot of the problems are, but if you want to look cool that's the price you pay :-)

You might need to set the saddle further forwards, rather than back.

54 sounds about the right size, so it's probably a matter of fiddling with the stem/saddle until you feel right.

combo as above, maybe longer stem ,bring saddle forward.

true though, track frames aren't the most comfortable for ride long distance, need a nice relaxed geometry touring frame. oh, it's already sold.

Nads hitting top tube? Not much standover height? You're my height (I ride 54/55/56cm) so should have a bit of room unless you have real stumpy legs.

I tried the elbow-on-saddle-tip-line-down-from-fingers-centre-of-stem 'rule of thumb' someone mentioned the other day and came up short on all my bikes, but you might wanna give it a go? There's also the bike fit calculator out there that I can't be bothered googling.
If you push the saddle back, your ass goes back and you become stretched out like a europroroadiescum. Try going the other way.
Also, how are you bars rotated? Actually if it's your first long ride then stuff will hurt.. adjust one thing at a time and see if it makes a diff. over the same distance.
Search google for "bike fit". Sheldon Brown has lots of rules of thumb kinda fitting tips you might want to run through just to make sure nothing is setup really out of whack.

Very interesting.
I am also getting back into cycling after a decade+.
I am a leggy 5'8.x" and just got a 56cm Flyer.
Although the top tube slopes upwards slightly the Flyer doesn't qualify as a `compact frame'. I even wrote to Genesis about this sizing issue. (my previous old school frames have been 56-58cm).
My nads clear easily. But I feel as if I am stretching forward too much when on the drops.
My instinct (for me) is to get a shorter stem. So you may indeed need a longer one.
The 56cm seems to come with a 115-120mm stem.
What length stem did your 54cm frame come with?
There is only a 7mm difference in top tube length (545mm vs. 552mm) between our two frames so I suspect there is a stem length difference.

When I get home I am going to try the eyeline test whereby when `properly' seated the handlebar should block the view of the front hub. That should confirm things.

Maybe we should trade stems. If not frames! (I jest but I hope my getting a shorter stem helps. I may get a 80mm Ritchey adjustable to sort myself out. Might even be useful between long and short distances.)

Don't try and set it all up at once.

Get the saddle right then work from there.

im same height, same model flyer, 54, altough i may have slightly longer legs than you as i have ok clearance straddling top tube. I put my saddle forward from the standard when i got it as i like sitting more upright. if you sit more upright you get less weight on your arms and hands so try putting your saddle a cm or so forward and see how you feel. Alternatively you can raise the handlebars by inverting the stem (standard points slightly downwards so that will raise your riding position a bit).

When I get home I am going to try the eyeline test whereby when `properly' seated the handlebar should block the view of the front hub. That should confirm things.

I hate to say it, but that test always seems useless to me - my old bike with a 57cm TT and a 7cm stem put the bars over the hub, as does my current bike with a 58.5cm TT and 11cm stem. In fact, no word of a lie, I rode a women's shopping bike at the weekend and noticed the bars blocked the view of the hub. Surely it's just putting three things (eyes, bars, hub) in a straight line, and any one of a number of positions will have that effect?

Generally agree:

• build up gradually to longer rides.
  
• change hand position often.
  
• stand-up occasionally.
  
• keep arms slightly bent (drop elbows a bit).
  

• think about what your lower back's doing.

• having been a numb-hander in the past, I moved my saddle ever forward to no avail; it was moving it back that helped - effectively slackens the seat-tube angle, so doesn't have you pitching forward over the bottom bracket (you may have to drop your saddle a bit though). Coupled with higher bars, you're less likely to find yourself holding up the weight of your head and upper body with locked vertical arms. (Caveat - this works for me because I've got short legs and a long upper body/arms; and of course an incredibly heavy brain :p)

• so first I'd leave the saddle alone, and get out there with your flipped stem and try another ride of similar/slightly shorter length, but change hand position A LOT. Good luck.

Comfy:

I agree with all the above.

We are all differently built - so move stuff around !

It is shocking what a cm here and there can do.

Expect a few place to ache after your first long ride.

I like that photo of Jacques Anquetil. In those days frame/fit aesthetics seemed to suggest that the amount of exposed seatpost length should end up about the same as the amount of headtube and stem extension. Anything else started to look a bit strange. Now you have windtunnels and compact frames but aching backs.

I'm about the same size as you, but I went for the 56cm frame which was sold as a 'medium'. 54cm was listed as small and I wouldn't describe 5'10" as small. Not done more than about 15 miles in one trip (or maybe 25 miles in a day) on it though as I use it for commuting. Not had any real problems - it's never going to be as comfy as my other bike with custom geometry so there's a chance I tend to ignore minor stuff. I've flipped the stem too and it seems fine to me. You're welcome to try it and compare frame sizes - I believe you're local to me as you mentioned somewhere in another post that your lbs was Two Wheels Good in Crouch End (a place I swore never to return to!).

Pushing your saddle all the way back will stretch you out and likely add to the pressure on your wrists. I've been told to do pilates to strengthen my core to keep the weight off the hands. I fractured my spine earlier in the year though so I've got an excuse to do pilates and still be heterosexual ;-)

xio I wouldn't describe 5'10" as small.

well, not for a girl, anyway

nielsamd I like that photo of Jacques Anquetil. In those days frame/fit aesthetics seemed to suggest that the amount of exposed seatpost length should end up about the same as the amount of headtube and stem extension.

"A fistful of seatpost" was the vernacular :)

Ok - I bought a longer stem the other day (Race Face), installed it and found that the top cap supplied with the Genesis stem does not tighten properly (ie. does not compress the stem and spacers), so the headset rattles!

Have I bought the wrong type of stem, or should a cap have been included with the stem?

Cheers,

John

You've done the following?:

• loosened the new stem clamp bolts (and greased under the heads + the threads)
  
• similar grease for top-cap bolt
  
• checked the height of the stem clamp compared to the old one
  
• made sure there's 2mm to 5mm of stem clamp or spacer protruding above the top of the steerer column
  
• given the front end a wiggle to make sure everything's seated properly
  
  

If so, I don't know what the problem is :P

yeah sounds like you need to add another spacer as the new stem has a lower stack height

why a longer stem?

RPM yeah sounds like you need to add another spacer as the new stem has a lower stack height

+1