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@hippy
Sheldon Brown and ParkTools websites are full of servicing info.
Basically, the wheel can move forward and back in the trackends on a fix so you undo the wheelnuts, move the wheel forward, throw the chain off the cog and then pull the wheel out of the track-ends. There are other configurations but you'll see these on Sheldon's site and pick 'em up over time..
See how the wheel can slide out the back of this frame, once the chain is off..