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• #27
how did you know i fucked my knee?!? it hurts but it aright, couldnt work yesterday cos i couldnt bend it..
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• #28
at bike polo for the last few months you didn't play due to said bad knee
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• #29
dicki at bike polo for the last few months you didn't play due to said bad knee
oh, well i fucked again since then.. darn slippery pavements
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• #30
oh shit well at least we got a referee for another few weeks ! :-(
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• #31
Does anyone know the weight? I picked up one of these locks in a bike shop and it still felt heavier than my full sized Abus Futura D lock, which weighs 950g.
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• #32
No, but Google will.
Full size = bad because you can fit tools in.
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• #33
hippy It's only good for freelocking right? It wont go around wheel, frame AND pole will it?
Check Sheldon on this, he points out that you only need to go round the rim and and round a pole, as long as the bit of rim you choose is in the rear triangle. It means you can't get the wheel out of the frame, without cutting the lock or the rim. Which is basically what locking the wheel to the frame is.
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• #34
Good point but I'd rather make it look like the frame was locked. Less likely to have someone attempt to pull the wheel out, etc.
cyclexpress still haven't delivered my mini :-(
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• #35
mashton [quote]hippy It's only good for freelocking right? It wont go around wheel, frame AND pole will it?
Check Sheldon on this, he points out that you only need to go round the rim and and round a pole, as long as the bit of rim you choose is in the rear triangle. It means you can't get the wheel out of the frame, without cutting the lock or the rim. Which is basically what locking the wheel to the frame is.[/quote]
Cutting the rim is a lot easier than cutting the frame. You could probably cut through a rim with bolt croppers or a hack saw. A bike minus a wheel is still a damn good steal.
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• #36
This thread is just one day too late for me. I ordered a mini evolution and a Cateye 3 LED rear light just yesterday from wiggle and paid just under £50. cyclexpress.co.uk is a good £15 cheaper delivered.
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• #37
Cutting a rim is not easier than cutting a frame, the rim is under a lot of tension and would be a bugger to cut.
In SF, the bike thieves would cut the top tubes (if they were just locked like 90% of bikes, with a ulock across this tube), and then just casually push the bikes away, strip it for parts and toss the frame. The worst of the worst, would tape over the cut location (or casually place stickers there) and sell the bike as is!
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• #38
Bolt cutters through the rim... maybe. Hacksaw? No effing way. The spokes are pulling the rim inwards, the blade will get stuck as soon as it goes 1mm into the rim.. Unless you cut through a lot of spokes, then the rim, tire.. I'd like to believe noone would be able to do that in the daylight without being questioned, but.. it is london, the impersonal capital of the world, right?
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• #40
pip Cutting a rim is not easier than cutting a frame, the rim is under a lot of tension and would be a bugger to cut.
In SF, the bike thieves would cut the top tubes (if they were just locked like 90% of bikes, with a ulock across this tube), and then just casually push the bikes away, strip it for parts and toss the frame. The worst of the worst, would tape over the cut location (or casually place stickers there) and sell the bike as is!
really? that is fucking terrible news
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• #41
Don't bother with a lock. Just learn to climb and hook your bike over the nearest lamp-post. Any would-be thieves would either need to be as much of a monkey as you or hire a cherrypicker to take it off !
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• #42
pip Cutting a rim is not easier than cutting a frame, the rim is under a lot of tension and would be a bugger to cut.
In SF, the bike thieves would cut the top tubes (if they were just locked like 90% of bikes, with a ulock across this tube), and then just casually push the bikes away, strip it for parts and toss the frame. The worst of the worst, would tape over the cut location (or casually place stickers there) and sell the bike as is!
Quite right. Hadn't really thought that through...
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• #43
well you ozie chunky bollox, i have always known about that...........................na seriously heard about that theory years ago makes sense..............it' s physics aint it 8^P
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• #44
My MINI finally arrived.
My first impressions: It feels heavier than I imagined. The keys are smaller than my large Krypto, the mounting bracket comes off but exposes more metal - it'd be nice if there was an offcut of the tubing to slip over it. I never took off the bracket on my other lock. It's only for show really anyway - my bike is already locked in a building. -
• #45
i am going for that fagheddaboudit mini i reckon. bit of a difference in weight though - mini evo 0.9 kg fag mini 2.2 kg
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• #46
anyone with a mini care to measure the "hole" width? just trying to find out what the largest object would be to fit with the rear wheel and seat tube. Any ideas?
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• #47
just measured it's 8.5cm
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• #48
The Sheldon technique is probably pretty good, although I don't think it would be that hard to cut 20 spokes and then the rim with a pair of bolt cutters.
The big problem I have with it is that it doesn't LOOK secure, even if it is. I think that a thief might think it is badly locked and start having a go at nicking it. Coming back to a buggered wheel or bent frame would be dispiriting and I'd rather avoid it. I also find that my mini (an onguard) fits around seat tube and wheel and railing cos I have a track bike.
Anyway, I mainly use the abus shielded cable cos so many things in London are too fat to lock to with a mini.
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• #49
"mini evo 0.9 kg, fag mini 2.2 kg"
That's a big difference, nearly 2 and a half times heavier!
The evo mini feels heavy because it's much smaller than my full sized lock, when in fact they are about the same weight.
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• #50
What's the largest diameter pole you can lock the mini onto. I've ordered one but it's not arrived yet and I'm just too impatient.
hows the knee