Pit Locks

so you think a hardware shop can replicate pitlock bolts? (or have i read your post wrong?)
that's a serious CNC machine needed to do that.

Ahhh right scott, then yeah lpg is correct. The special bolt thing sounds like a plan.

31trum(murtle) here ya go.....pitlock for solid axles

They seem like a great idea but I'm not liking the look of them as they're quite big (bigger for solid axles). And $80 before shipping is costly. I'd have to buy a 2 sets for both my bikes or swap one set onto the other depending on which bike being used. I think it maybe easier to get a mini Krypto for the front wheel (£35) and keep rocking the 15mm's. Impressive and intriguing though!...I'd like to see a full image of a bike with them on.

No mr smith that's what i mean, if u lose the pitlock key you have to call pitlock, and since they are the only supplier they can charge whatever they want. If you lose one of those star-shaped allen keys (pic above), then you just need to go to any hardware shop to get it, and it'll be cheaper. Dya get me?

But, as far as i kno, only phil wood have bolts on their hubs, most of you guys have a nut? In that case i'm not sure what you could do but perhaps just don't get a 6-sided 15mm nut, maybe an 8-sided or a 3 sided? Then just buy the special spanner along with it ...

But so could anyone up for stealing your wheels- go to a hardware store and buy some funky allen keys.

.

Lois Einhorn i think the point is they're unlikely to have them on them

I guess it depends what kinda theif you are up against. But i agree at the moment with not many people doing the special bolt thing it is unlikely. If it became popular tho and was as easy as just walking into any hardware store...

.

Phil Wood hubs, so that they require an allen key.

And then magnets. In the shape of the allen key.

Put them in the holes. Use a bigger, more powerful magnet to extract them.

rakan [quote]Lois Einhorn [quote]i think the point is they're unlikely to have them on them

I guess it depends what kinda theif you are up against. But i agree at the moment with not many people doing the special bolt thing it is unlikely. If it became popular tho and was as easy as just walking into any hardware store...[/quote]

you've hit the nail on the head there i think - it's all about popularity. The analogy would be computer viruses i guess - PC are vunerable
to viruses co they're so common. Macs (until recently anyway) were much less common so were less vunerable to attack. The "bad guys"
were less likely to have the tools/info or the inclination to write malicious code for them I think.
a really good advantage you can gain is by not only having a hardcore lock but an unusual hardcore lock that the theif hasn't seen
before. I'm going on a bit -and not being very eloquent - but some sort of unusual new bolt fixing would probably keep away a good percentage of
theives simply by virtue of being a bit different to those on all the other bikes (and the tools they are carrying)

what about these lois :

scott not scot if ya want a cheap anti wheel theft device....i reckon a lump of dogshit on each wheel nut should do the trick!!!....:)

lol!!!

lpg what about these lois :

look fucking perfect if you can get them in the right size...

lpg No mr smith that's what i mean, if u lose the pitlock key you have to call pitlock, and since they are the only supplier they can charge whatever they want. If you lose one of those star-shaped allen keys (pic above), then you just need to go to any hardware shop to get it, and it'll be cheaper. Dya get me?

But, as far as i kno, only phil wood have bolts on their hubs, most of you guys have a nut? In that case i'm not sure what you could do but perhaps just don't get a 6-sided 15mm nut, maybe an 8-sided or a 3 sided? Then just buy the special spanner along with it ...

I see. I wonder if they will fit goldtec hubs? (those german things)

pitlock competition on the way?
http://www.bikebiz.co.uk/news/21485/INTERBIKE-Kryptonite-launch-anti-theft-QR-skewers

i reckon you could easy open them up with a biro

ooohhh spooky ebay synchronisity... one mans solution to getting his phil's nicked

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Custom-locking-track-wheelset-Phil-Wood-hubs-Deep-Vs_W0QQitemZ110144160964QQihZ001QQcategoryZ58099QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

You can use a pitlock (or other skewers) with Goldtec hubs.

A cheaper solution (again for use with QR axles) is a trans-x security skewer. Costs a couple of quid and uses a five sided "allen key" to do up. Not nearly as good as a pitlock but still gonna confuse most thieves.

BTW, I have only seen the pitlock locking nuts in 10mm thread - remember that front axles are 9mm.

Also I should emphasise again that switching axles on a hub is pretty easy and would allow the majority of hubs to be used with a pitlock skewer.

.

Check the park tools website for a better explanation with pics (look under overhauling hubs or something). The process is generally the same as overhauling hubs with a couple of extra steps.

You will need cone wrenches, bearings and grease to overhaul and a new hollow axle.

Basically both sides of the hub have a cone threaded onto the axles which forms half the bearing surface and a locknut to keep the cone in place. To overhaul a hub you take one side off, remove the axle with the other side left in place and then clean the whole lot and put it back together.

The first step is to put a cone wrench on each locknut (ie one either side of hub) and loosen both until one locknut comes free. Undo this one all the way and take the cone off the same side. Take the axle off with the other cone and locknut left in place. The ebarings will fall out so make sure they all alnd in a good place. If you just want to overhaul the hub then clean everything thoroughly with degreaser, get some new bearings of the right size (they're cheap so you might as well replace them while you've got everything apart) and reassemble with lots of grease. The hard bit is adjusting everything properly - you want it as tight as possibe but without causing drag on the bearings and it can take a little while.

If you want to replace the axle then do the above until you have the axle, cone and locknut out of the hub. Then use two cone wrenches, one on the cone and one on the locknut, and use them to tighten the cone and loosen the locknut until they come free. Take them both off the axle. Then put them on the new axle and reassemble everything as above with lots of grease. Adjust the cones and locknuts so there is about the same amount of axle either side of the hub. Then do one side's cone and locknut up tight and adjust the other side as before. You have to leave a little play as the skewer will compress the bearings a bit when it tightens.

You can pick up replacement axles pretty easily and cheaply from a decent bike shops. Campy axles are a bit more expensive because Campy everything is a bit more expensive.

.

No worries dude. Check out the park tools website if you aren't sure about anything - they have good explanations with photos of most bike maintenance work.

The hub bearings are affected depending on whether you use quick-release / regular axles.

QRs somehow compress the bearings slightly when tightened, so there should be a LITTLE play when the wheels are not in dropouts. After tightening up the QR (pitlock in this case) the play magically disappears

Park tools website explains all!

Dunno if those trans-x skewers are really up to the task.

I had them on me MTB and stripped a couple.

just found these
might be another option for front wheel security.....