Cranks?

anyone know anything about these cranks?

or what other crankset would you guys recommend?

sugino zen or 75,ambrosio, dura ace, campagnolo are the one i can think of

i didnt want to start a new topic but i was wondering if anyone could help?
when i pedal backwards sometimes my crank kind of slips backwards and then when i immediately pedal forwards after, it slips forwards to its original place then stops slipping and allows me to move?
i am very new to cycling and have tried tightening the cranks but to no avail.
im really unsure of what to do(if there is anything i can do). i dont want to buy new cranks and all that stuff because my bloody conversion is becomming nearly as expensive as buying a track bike.
please help!!!

you need to tighten your lockring and take it easy when you pedal coz you might skrew the thread on your hub.

Sugino 75 is a beautiful but expensive thing. Grand Mighty is good enough for Wiggins, so it's prob good enough for us. The cheap Suginos are pretty fair too.

I ignore Campag kit, because they put a rider weight limit of 80kg on it.

The Dura-Ace is splined rather than square-taper which wouldn't be my first choice for fixed. Very lovely though.

The pocket-money RPM is crude but effective.

The Stronglight is a handsome beast, but there have been chainline issues with it.

don't forget the Miche cranks

Stef you need to tighten your lockring and take it easy when you pedal coz you might skrew the thread on your hub.

thanks mate. had a go at it. took the bolts out of my cranks but couldnt get them off to get at the lock rings.
pain in the arse. just went out and didnt feel it slip once but if it does it again ill have another go.

joe_b [quote]Stef you need to tighten your lockring and take it easy when you pedal coz you might skrew the thread on your hub.

thanks mate. had a go at it. took the bolts out of my cranks but couldnt get them off to get at the lock rings.
pain in the arse. just went out and didnt feel it slip once but if it does it again ill have another go.[/quote]
Think Stef meant the lockring on your hub. Sounds like the sprocket is moving.

Like he says, you'll need to get it sorted or you risk goosing your hub.

kowalski The Dura-Ace is splined rather than square-taper which wouldn't be my first choice for fixed. Very lovely though.

You can still buy Dura-Ace crank with square taper, I just did, they are still being produced.

I don't think splined version is njs certified.

Not that I'm doing many kierins though.. :p

They cost £145 sans-rings.

kowalski [quote]joe_b [quote]Stef you need to tighten your lockring and take it easy when you pedal coz you might skrew the thread on your hub.

thanks mate. had a go at it. took the bolts out of my cranks but couldnt get them off to get at the lock rings.
pain in the arse. just went out and didnt feel it slip once but if it does it again ill have another go.[/quote]
Think Stef meant the lockring on your hub. Sounds like the sprocket is moving.

Like he says, you'll need to get it sorted or you risk goosing your hub.[/quote]

ah i just realised after i posted what he meant.
it makes no sense that it would be a problem with the crank duh!!!
cheers guys ill sort that out shortly:)

MA3K [quote]kowalski The Dura-Ace is splined rather than square-taper which wouldn't be my first choice for fixed. Very lovely though.

You can still buy Dura-Ace crank with square taper, I just did, they are still being produced.

I don't think splined version is njs certified.

Not that I'm doing many kierins though.. :p

They cost £145 sans-rings.[/quote]

I think the square-taper version is NOS now, but there's no shortage of them. Is it 135 BCD though?

The splined one is NJS certified, as is the sealed BB. Which is odd. Info from businesscycles, btw.

I think all the Campag stuff has lost its NJS certification.

I know most of us fall for it, but the NJS stamp isn't a mark of quality.

Didn't stop me buying a 75 though... ;-)

yeah but the 75 is a nice bit of kit.

Japanese Racing cert is of no use here.

It is, however, a load of old bollocks

i think i'm being a bit of an arse here i want to rid my bike of the japanese parts and get preferrably french (yes, pain) parts on it. like old school stuff... what chainline issues are there with stronglight ones?

and how do they fit with bottom brackets? i took the left crank off last night checked my b.b. it's 34.8 x 24 tpi. i'm assuming it's british thread. it's an ofmega, italian.

building my 2nd fix it's a japanese frame so would swap the old japanese cranks over to that and get a japanese b.b.

Both Hubjub and Businesscycles have noted that Stronglight's claim that a 107mm BB gives correct chainline is wrong. Hubjub recommend a 103, byers a 111. The TA shares these issues.

I reckon the problem is that French kit is different to track "standard". (Whoda thunk it?) Will at Hubjub told me that the 42mm is more accurately Japanese track standard.

Depending whose specs you believe, the Mavic track hubs have a chainline of 44 or 46mm, which might explain why the Stronglight chainline is off on 42mm hubs.

The Ofmega spindle taper is proprietary, which doesn't help...

Miche Primato cranks with the Miche bottom bracket. It allows you to fine adjust the chainline, by adjusting the BB. It also looks great.
Don't get me started on the Miche Sprocket system, thats the best invention ever.
I love Miche stuff, some people stick there nose up at it...fools.

does the miche bb have adjustment? condor fitted mine so i don't have 1st hand experience of adjusting it.

There are two cups that hold the BB cartridge in the frame, by winding these cups out or in on the threads, you can tweak the chainline. Not by cm's, but mm's.
You will need a Campagnolo cassette tool to adjust the cups. Not all work, I've heard the Park one does and I can confirm that one made by Pedros does too.
I only fitted mine last week, and haven't put enough miles into it to say if the Miche system is hard-wearing.
It is however much lighter then the dirty lump of cast iron that Shimano call a BB, which it replaces.

.

Considering i want to keep my bike more vintage looking and also looking at the fact that i want things to be as low a budget as possible, would these cranks be ok, obviously i would remove the extra chain rings.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Bicycle-chainwheels-and-cranks-1970-80s-X-Two_W0QQitemZ140251891574QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item140251891574&_trksid=p3286.m14.l1318#ebayphotohosting

They'll be fine untill they're not. ;-)
How long? .... that depends on you.

They'll be fine untill they're not. ;-)
How long? .... that depends on you.

You lost me, i'm having a thick day i think.

if they are in your budget then they are fine. seriously, people ride around for thousands of miles on crappy parts and don't bereak them.. others have the best and regularly mash their gear.
it's not a decision that can be made for you online.. they don't look to be the worst, but the crank-spider inerface looks to be a press-fit and people have said that is a recipe for slippage etc.

Ok cheers, will probably avoid.

What about these and would there be problems with BB, ie the taper
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Campagnolo-Centaur-Double-Crank-set_W0QQitemZ360074045483QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item360074045483&_trksid=p3286.m14.l1318#ebayphotohosting

Or....... http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/road-bike-cycle-double-chainset-crank-42-52-tooth_W0QQitemZ280249722515QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item280249722515&_trksid=p3286.m14.l1318#ebayphotohosting