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Sometimes if the thread slot is munted and/or the tab on the washer is mashed, it's better to just file off the tab so it stops interfering with the situation.
But yeah, I've also come across some quite severe rattles between steerer and cup; with the headset as well-adjusted and tightened as possible, a clunk under hard braking followed by the headset inevitably loosening itself ensues. Kind of amazed in retrospect it never occurred to me to try thread tape in such instances... I guess I only started using it after I no longer had much to do with threaded steerers.
If the threads don't go down far enough on the steerer, that should be obvious as hell - spin the cup all the way down and it stops rattling on the steerer but the fork still rattles in the headset.
Keep your money gun holstered IMO - unless you don't have any thread tape. If you can get enough jammed in there, it should compress pretty hard and allow the locknut to hold the cup solid. It might take a couple of goes.
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Kimmo
Aroogah
lynx
Might be a bit too generic here but I am trying to work out next steps with something.
My son has an old GT with a 1" threaded headset on the original fork, quill stem. The fork has that channel cut into the threads for the old style lock ring headset washers.
I installed a new headset myself (Tange something) when I built up the bike, but now I can no longer tighten it without the top bearing race just sort of slipping / letting loose. It does this before I can tighten it enough to remove all the play. The top lock nut sort of helps, but there still is slop in the headset.
My current theories and solutions are:
I have a new headset and can source a new fork, but I would prefer to keep the original fork if possible. But it may not be.
Which of those three is it most likely? I just want to know where to point the money gun. Ta.