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• #5927
Hahaha ear defenders on I hope :D
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• #5928
Bad day on the tubeless for me. Started with pouring fluid into a syringe without a cap on the end of it, in the bathroom.
Tan wall one I am advised could be tape, but first poc new rubber seal/washer thing.
Got a road wheelset which came tubeless without a removable valve corr. Valve also can't be screwed down like you would on an inner tube valve once pumping. No idea when they were last topped up.. do I break the seal, take some tyre off to proactively maintain them hmmm
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• #5929
Anyone tried the Topeak Tubihead upgrade or any other of their upgraded hoses? Worth it over a £10 standard hose and valve. This is only for a garden sprayer inflator bodge so head says no, and if sensible you'll be inserting sealant after seating anyway, rendering this kind of useless.
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• #5930
That rim looks a bit like it's deforming around the spokes, is it just a strange effect in the photo?
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• #5931
It's probably a Mavic with their scalloped rims. Remember Ksyriums?
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• #5932
I don't. Had some open pros at one point but pretty sure they weren't lumpy.
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• #5933
Had some open pros at one point but pretty sure they weren't lumpy.
Old Open Pro wasn't deliberately lumpy, new one is. They're milled to leave thick material around the holes and thin material in between.
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• #5934
Just started riding a bike I haven’t used in a few months, with 26x2.8 WTB Rangers, Caffelatex sealant.
Topped up with 60ml of sealant, rode a while, started slowly losing pressure. Topped up a bit more, took wheel off and swilled it around… still slowly losing pressure. Only the rear, front is OK.
No visible sealant peeking through anywhere.
Bizarrely, I can’t hear or feel any sealant sloshing around inside the voluminous tyre, and there’s no sealant sputtering through the valve when inflating/removing the core. Even though there’s now around 150ml of fresh sealant in there…
What to check next? Please don’t say remove the tyre, these are a bitch to get off the WTB rims…
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• #5935
Hold it under water to see if bubble come out?
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• #5936
don’t say remove the tyre
If you don't remove the tyre, how are you going to replace the valve? When I've had slow non-obvious leaks, it has been where the valve seals to the rim bed.
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• #5937
Or degraded/failing rim tape. Tyre off.
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• #5938
150ml or cl? You need a good amount for that tire
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• #5939
Gorgeous photo btw
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• #5941
Read
The
First
Fucking
PostIf your tyres/wheels don't hold air - pump them up and cover with a washing up liquid and water solution. Bubbles will form at the point of leaks, shake wheel around so sealant gets to the leak and hopefully it will seal.
Clue is in the thread title
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• #5942
Took a long bath this morning to contemplate my own slow and intermittent tubeless leak. Kept the water and dunked the wheel afterwards.
Tester is always right. It was the valve. Not a steady stream of bubbles, but a few here and there at different orientations.
Tyre off. Sigh.
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• #5943
Sometimes you can fix them by loosening the nut, giving the valve a push/wiggle and tightening it again, then try and get the sealant on it by holding it valve down then flipping it over quickly. No guarantees but worth a quick try.
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• #5944
Mine seems to have miraculously sealed itself after riding the last couple of days. Looks like it was just sulking through neglect…
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• #5945
Thanks. Went for a full retape for my sins.
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• #5946
another OKO off road rec, also first tubeless road experience (though tubeless mtb since 08). Pulled a big piece of glass out of my new panaracer road tyre yesterday. It had sealed nicely and sealed again with no piece of glass. V cool.
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• #5947
Very belatedly taken the plunge today, after many years of wondering
First tyre went up fine first time and seemed to hold pressure, as soon as I'd added sealant, with just two layers of tape and a track pump. At this point I was feeling v positive
Second tyre, which is older albeit very far from worn out, had no less than four punctures - where you could see sealant coming through the tyre - that had never punctured the inner tube beneath previously. One of these was pissing air and sealant, enough to stop the tyre getting high enough pressure to seat the bead. Added a dynoplug - thankfully I'd already bought these to stick in my bag in case of a puncture - and it seemed to work, although not immediately.
Eventually seemed to seal and it's held a few hours, time will tell if it lasts overnight. But it's definitely got me wondering if this going to have the opposite effect from intended - which was to reduce the chance of punctures. If the presence of the tube itself has seemingly prevented four punctures, one of which took a plug and a lot of time to seal, am I really going to get fewer punctures by going tubeless?
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• #5948
It's not as magical as people make it to be. Reduces the chance of pinch flats for sure, but it's still possible.
Depends on the application, chunky tires with low pressure work good. There's a learning curve to it, I can plug a tire way faster than swapping tubes. Wouldn't bother with road tires, too unreliable. -
• #5949
I'll have to see how I get on with it
Agreed that adding the plug was fun and easy and I'd much rather be doing that on the roadside than changing a tube
Overnight both tyres dropped to 20psi, so not flat but about half what they need to be able to hold. Hopefully that was a one time thing while the sealant gets to where it needs to go, and does its thing, rather than something that's gonna happen every night
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• #5950
Right then never mind getting them to seal i want to break the bead and these cinturato’s are welded on . Tried the levers , thumbs,heal and pipe grips and nothing pops them off the bead ? Any tips . I dont have a vice or cobblers thumbs.
Ta
I snatched a load of stuff up this morning when I was leaving for work so currently got a non tubeless tyre and tube sitting on it to press the tape down. Given it’s a non tubeless tire and a hookless rim it’s sat at the farthest end of the workshop incase it pops!