Mechanics and Fixing Any Questions Answered

Spaced out man

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Who could have guessed that reading the instructions would have saved days of discussion?

Instructions don't help if you don't know what you're even dealing with to begin with. They don't tell you which cranks will work on bike x.

They don't help when you don't have the right tools.

They don't help when you want to know WHY? and not just "do this".

Ah, so the BB isn't 73mm

It's for 68 or 73 BB shell and is spaced out to take the longer axle on MTB cranks. Road/grav have a shorter axle so only 68 with no spacers.

Yeah, I'm just confused because almost everything else I have uses 68mm stuff. Anyway the BB is installed (correctly) now but I still need a lockring tool for the DM crank spider. I may just try the other (2x) cranks out but maybe I'll just be lazy for a few days instead.

I guess the good thing about ht2 is that it’s designed to work on 68 or 73mm shells. You don’t need a different bb, just a few spacers and in practice those spacers don’t need to adhere to the 1.8 and 2.5mm sizes, you can just whack (almost) anything in there in (almost) any order and it’ll (probably) work.

Yeah, makes sense... now. But when you don't know you don't know.

Now I need to either find the tool for the 1x or try installing the other 2x crankset so I can ride something tomorrow.

Actually would Condor or Sigma sell the chainring lockring tool, I wonder?

I know it doesn’t help you get out tomorrow but incase it’s a toll you want to own, I bought this one and it seems perfectly fine.

I've already ordered one, but it's not going to arrive until Tuesday. I was hoping one of the London shops might have one in their workshops but Sunday's not a great day to be trying to find a functional workshop with random crank tool.

Balfes don't answer, Sigma Sport just on some recorded message loop, Condor closed.

My jockey wheels are dying on my commuter, they're on an RD-M5120. I was thinking about getting something with bearings for tartiness, but the guide and tension wheels seem different on the OG Shimanos.

https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/gear-spares/bbb-rollerboys-jockey-wheels-11t-bdp02/

https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/gear-spares/shimano-deore-rdm5120-tension-guide-pulley-unit-sgs-type-y3hm98010/

Will I kill myself or my derailleur with the Rollerboys?

Can you just use a regular single tooth lock ring spanner? Like one you'd use for a track lock ring? I've used those for removing and installing external bbs and it stuff, but it does scratch it up a bit.

I mean, I could just hammer the fucker with a screwdriver but I'm not going to :)

What Ergos have you got? Same era as the rear mech?

The problem is that the lockring is recessed into the ring a bit so a flat toll won’t do it.

Or at least that’s why I had to buy one for my Deores.

It's all the 2010-2014 era Chorus 11s stuff: shifters, chainset and deraillers
(white stickers, not red stickers, and no little boxed 'A' stamped on the parts)

@edscoble (#8162) Other photos show current set-up. It's for a Look KG243, currently has a Veloce 10s groupset, with a 12-29 cassette. Photos show the space left when on big front ring and biggest (29t) rear sprocket. Distance c-c axle to derailler is 28-29mm.

Edit: I found a spare 105 11-30 cassette; the 29t Campag sprocket measures 118mm diameter at widest point (tooth to tooth), and the Shimano 30t sprocket measures 123mm at widest point, so only 2.5mm extra radius, seems small enough to be worth giving it a try.

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Thanks to @spinnnout for the well dodgy Richmond Park definitely not a drug deal officer I'm just tightening up this crank meetup

Not actually put any force through it but it shifts like it's meant to which is a good start.

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Couple of years ago I set up Centaur 11 speed sprockets on a pre 2015 SR rear mech and ergos, there was a slight shifting issue just over half way down the gears, whatever I did I couldn’t get it quite right. I can’t find the article now, but there was a change to the spacer widths back then to make the sprockets run better. Ended up having to use (I think) a 2mm spacer between (possibly) the 3rd and 4th smallest sprockets and it since been spot on.
One to consider if you can’t quite get it right also.

Dibs crankset... ;)

You can have
165mm 40T GRX,
170mm 32T Middleburn
170mm 36/26T? Deore 2x w/ 40T Deckas ring

You run slicks on an Ogre? What's wrong with you?!?!?! ;)

You think that's bad - it also has aerobars fitted.

Oh and the Scott Spark also has the same slicks.

On-road off-road is the new um gravel.

Will I kill myself or my derailleur with the Rollerboys?

You'll struggle to notice. Ever since SIS became a thing, Shimano has rocked the Centeron-G jockey wheel (only the top one is called a jockey wheel BTW, the other is the tension pulley). This has taken the form of a slightly wider bushing than the pulley which has a metal insert for its own bushing in the cheap seats, the same deal in ceramic for 600/Ultegra, and a super fancy little ball bearing cartridge in Dura-Ace with built-in lateral slop (I guess it must be a pair of races of tiny balls for it to work).

Aftermarket replacements have made that all look silly by just having thinner teeth on the top pulley, or made it look even sillier still by not even bothering with a difference. I think Shimano must have decided back in the day it's an important component of SIS, helps the HyperGlide do its thing, and maybe it really did in the 6s days, but I've mucked around with eliminating it on 7s and up, and never noticed much change. I guess maybe it's a little more tolerant of bad adjustment, but I can't see how it won't inescapably make the chain less responsive to the RD.

I'm actually rocking narrow/wide 12/14t in my 11s Di2, and it's totally fine, probably a bit snappier than stock even (at the cost of a smaller correct adjustment window).

This is the detail that makes this forum worth saving, thank you.

TCR rig?

Is this a bad idea:

I have a road bike I'm building up and want to put dia-compe ENE wing shifters to shift a Shimano 11 speed RD on an 11s campagnolo cassette?

Reasoning: I have some nice wheels with a campag free hub and 11s cassette, but I'm quite poor. The wing shifters aren't cheap but if I bought that then I could save money on RD. Ideally it'll be 2 x 11. I have a double chainset

Fears: read conflicting information about mixing is a great idea, it's a bad idea, it won't work, it'll work flawlessly etc

Further question: do you need a specific type of RD mechanism to work with the wing shifters, ie indexed, non indexed or something like that

Anything else I should be thinking about (like buying a complete bike instead, stick to single speeds, buying a modern BMX or get another hobby😭)

I'm also building another bike for my partner that will be matched up but a chunk of that one came for free which pushed me in that direction