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Because they're designed to have one, you'll have 2.5mm excess axle going into the NDS crank and slightly asymmetric cranks, which will probably do nothing if you can preload them without bottoming out the nut.
snottyotter-
slightly asymmetric cranks
I have this with a pair of middleburns at the moment, it's actually better if I remove the DS spacer specified by Shimano for the BB
Asymmetric, as measured by distance from pedal eye to centre of seat tube, as I wasn't certain whether the chainstays would be symmetrical. IE the q factor is slightly different on each side
But it got me looking into it, and I found loads of comments on forums etc saying slightly asymmetrical cranks are completely normal and you'd be amazed how often this is the case. So I've decided to just not worry about it
I am no expert on square taper but I think it's particularly the case on these, as the BBs were often deliberately asymmetric? I think they often aimed to put the drive side crank where it needed to be for chainline and chainring/chainstay clearance, then just put the left hand crank as close in as possible, for narrower overall, but asymmetric, q.
Given we are talking about 2.5mm, there is a good chance your legs are not that symmetric anyway?
lemonade
Why? It's not as close to the chainstay as the photo appears to show. I never found a lockring tool so I'm not going to bother putting the chain on until I know it will fly.