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Would it not be SRAM dub? https://winstanleysbikes.co.uk/sram-dub-bottom-bracket
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Please do this! Love to know how it goes. I have a frame that is annoyingly 73mm , as all the cranks I want to ride width wise are for 68mm. Wide mtb cranks are wide wide wide for me.
Tried to work out whether to use hack saw, angle grinder etc before getting it faced.
Has anyone done this here? -
What about this Shimano Deore FC-M6000-2 Hollowtech 10S 170mm 38-28T
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/126775069359Could I remove the two rings and fit a narrow wide 1x ring?
These would be good, if they were shorter. I could use 175mm cranks as a temporary measure...
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/205123327749 -
38T would probably work but I want something at the cheaper end
I'd offer you my surplus one of these, but you'd get it quicker and cheaper from bezosworld🙂
Chainring 104 BCD 32T 34T 36T 38T Narrow Wide Single Chain Ring with 4 Pieces Sprocket Bolts for Road Bikes, Mountain Bikes, BMX MTB Bike https://amzn.eu/d/1nVdF49 -
I still need the rest of the crankset though. I'm trying to find 73mm (non-Boost) 165mm long (haha) 1x cranks.
This shows up to 42T for 96bcd Shimano ASSymetric chainrings...
https://alugear.com/chainrings-1x/274-14569-round-for-96-bcd-shimano-asymmetric-mtb.html#/11-color-black/34-size-40tSo I could get a Deore 6000 set of cranks and throw a NW 40T on it I reckon (probably forgotten some other measurement now).
If I stick to 170mm there's some cheap Deore
https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/chainsets/shimano-deore-fcm5100-1011-speed-single-chainset-32t-170mm/ -
Nope, either 24mm or 30mm for that crank, not 29mm DUB.
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Nothing but the chainrings were like £60 a piece or something so I decided to get whole new GRX cranks and have standard shit on everything... 73mm shell fucked that idea up though.
£££ https://mountainbikecomponents.co.uk/collections/spiders
Not sure about chainring size limit on the frame. Yet another fucking value I didn't look into. I should've stuck with road bikes.
Well, I've now just ordered used Deore cranks and a NW 1x chainring which probably won't fit either given the width of the chainstay so I'm going to sell the bike and buy something else because I have grown tired and disgusted with MTB crank options.
I could get a triple and add a front derailer or somethig daft like that.
Chainring Clearance: 24/36/48t
https://surlybikes.com/bikes/legacy/ogre_2016https://www.bikeforums.net/bicycle-mechanics/1239425-surly-ogre-under-geared.html
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https://www.lfgss.com/comments/17614439/
Any advice for this? I need to reinstall my cleats tonight before a ride this evening. Can't decide between grease or Loctite but leaning towards copper grease.
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Plus 1 for doing this also
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leaning towards copper grease.
That option has served me well
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Thanks all, I'll give that a shot
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Uberbike sell a BB for £35, other similar people might too.
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It's a possibility.
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I still need the rest of the crankset though. I'm trying to find 73mm (non-Boost) 165mm long (haha) 1x cranks.
I have some Zee cranks in 165mm, I've seen other pairs knocking around on ebay since buying mine.
I also have a Deore crankset on another bike that was direct mount but I put a cheap spider on instead. The Deore cranks are always showing up cheap.
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I know many will discount this….
But , square taper Shimano bb un55 are still available in 73mm. Love to see you try and destroy this.
Then spa cranks in 110 bcd. They do 165mm as well.
Not pushing an agenda here but my anecdata says it’s good.
Then NW cring off AliExpress for 8£. Or if you buy the spa triple crank arms and make , a compact double 24/36 , 30/46 or whatever. They do these built up as while csets too.
Before anyone says heavy , I too ride a surly and have weighed things precisely zero times so this may be important to you! Also aesthetics, hmmm, surly with tbars (like I do) kind of invalidated this? -
I get you. I just wanted slightly bigger gears and thought I could do it and standardise everything to GRX across bikes. Alas, no. I'll probably just stick the fucking Middleburns back on because an undergeared rideable bike is better than an unrideable bike.
What I'd love is my "normal" external BB Shimano crank bullshit but if those fucks don't do 165mm, 73mm, 1x, NW, fucking 36T that somehow also magically clears the chainstays of a Surly Ogre then so be it - I'll buy an electric recumbent.
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Just get the Shimano regular 68/73 crankset.
142 and 135 is pretty much the same thing, you have the option for thru axle with the former but not the latter.
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Huh? You trolling right?
165mm? Doesn't exist
40T? Doesn't exist
1x? Doesn't exist
etc
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Get the BB shell reduced.
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https://www.sram.com/en/sram/models/fc-s650-a2
✔️165mm, 1×, 38T, fits 73mm shell, cheap as chips, 104mm PCD so loads of aftermarket chainrings available, could use 118 BB instead of 113 to get more chainstay clearance, or bin the guard and use the outer ring position
❌good luck finding 165mm in stock anywherehttps://www.sram.com/en/sram/models/fc-apx-1w-d1
✔️165mm, 1×, 40T, fits 73mm shell
❌165 seems to be hen's teeth at the moment, but Sigmasport say they have a 160 in stock
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If you believe my "let's just float a ruler somewhere in the area of the rear hub and make an educated guess" measuring, it's 135mm
But if you read the manuals:
"Horizontal slotted with derailleur hanger and Surly “Gnot Boost” 135, 142, and/or 148mm hub spacing compatibility;"
"As for its 12mm x 145mm Gnot Boost spacing, there are inevitable pros and cons to the system. One the one hand, it allows the use of either 12 x 142mm thru axle or 12 x 148mm Boost thru axle hubs. By using Surly 10/12 Adapter Washers, as I did, 10 x 135mm bolt on or 135mm QR hubs are compatible too, reassuring in this ever-shifting world of ‘standards’. The downside? It’s not a captive thru-axle design, so you’ll lose out on the inherent stiffness of the system."
Ok, this is 2017 version, mine is older and doesn't have this insert rear end, it's just QR so I'm sticking with 135mm.