Mechanics and Fixing Any Questions Answered

@Tonts The thread on the mech that screws into the frame is Fubar'd? (Or alternatively the frame thread is Fubar'd but its more likely the soft alu on the mech).

Thanks all. How do I reset the limit screws? Like what’s their default position. They have certainly had a fair bit of adjustment.

Re: bent mech hanger. Should I just take it to the LBS? It will be used by my lad who hasn’t used gears before so won’t be a disaster if it sticks in the bigger cogs.

How do I reset the limit screws?

You’ve already got the cable detached right? Back the limiters right out to the point where the chain drops off the wee end of the cassette and if you push it up to the other end it’ll go into the spokes then do them up till they are preventing that.

Thanks! Will give it a go. Am starting to think the mech hanger is off though.

Depends if the DT swiss 240s hub is a 100x hub with assymetric end caps or a 110 specific one with symetrical.

Reverse situation: most 100 > 110 end cap conversions are assymetrical so to go 100 > 110 you just change drive side end cap and redish your wheel to centre rim accordingly (the disc mounts stay in position, extra 10mm added to drive side).

The mech hanger being that little bit bent wouldnt put you 3 cogs in, and from what I can see there is no other obvious bend /twist to the body.

This might be daft to ask ... but have you tried turning the pedals / chain since you released the cable? If it's not the limit screw or muck holding it in place, a chain (partcularly an old stiffed up rusty one) will do that just fine if theres no rotation made to allow the derailleur to guide chain back down to high gear.

If thats not it, as @M_V says, back out the L + H screws – next port of call should be to get it off the bike and give it a really good clean, lube and flex all the spring / jointed parts.

is there a low stack 1-1/8" headset design that would allow me to run some forks i have purchased on my straight steerer steel framed bicycle?
it's possible that i have made a slight error in that the forks have 205mm of steerer and the head tube length is 170mm, but i forgot about the headset cups #facepalm

Cane Creek is pretty low stack, also have you tried a low stack stem? Kalloy Uno are pretty decent for not a lot of money.

Or you can get a slam the stem cover from +gbj_tester if you wanna try to use your current headset.

It looks like the screw that holds the replaceable derailleur hanger in needs to be screwed in further though right? Which would line everything up more.

205mm of steerer and the head tube length is 170mm, but i forgot about the headset cups

If it's a conventional (EC34) headset, you're fucked. 205-170=35, minimum EC34 headset is going to be about 24mm e.g. Cane Creek 10 or 40 with my specific low cover, leaving 11mm for the stem

Pedals have been turned. That’s just where it is. I could probably clean and GT85 the thing though. The bolt into the hanger seemed tight but could give it another look.

Basically the lowest gear is cog 3 and the highest sends the chain into the spokes.

Removing & installing Middleburn cranks and BB.. do I need any special tools or just Shimano crank puller and Shimano spline (old style internal) BB tool?

I want to remove mine from Surly and fit GRX cranks but worried I wont be able to pull BB after crank removal

Oh, any idea what model name the brake pads would be for some old Deore calipers? Have they been standard forever (haha) or will I need to pull them and take photo?

1 Attachment

Depends how old, but either B or G shape, so B05S for current resin steel backed pads.
I think they might be G05S though.

X type (hollotech style external bb) or square taper ?

I reckon you're right that it's the G-type, don't see any Deore with B pads.

11mm for a stem should be fine though yeah?
sort of already knew the answer but I was hoping there had been some futuristic nano bearings invented or something.
oh well!
I do have another frame that these forks will fit but not the intended frame and it will mean a lot of faffing about.
maybe I should just sell them.
or sell everything and give up cycling altogether.

photo attached so you can laugh at my stupidity

1 Attachment

If you squint at the neck between the retaining pin and the pads, B pads normally have straight parallel sides, G has a tapered neck.

Very likely G though.

Older ones deffo were, but I guess older than these.

Hanger looks slightly off but I'd try to release cable tension first

Great question. Never looked. Square taper perhaps. Have a mucky photo of a crank :D

1 Attachment

Hmm...
https://www.merlincycles.com/shimano-g05s-rx-disc-brake-pads-resin-268480.html

I'll have a closer look when I can be arsed.

Reminds me... I also need to buy a bunch of allen key pad retainer bolts (I'm sure I've posted about them elsewhere). I hate split pins.

I might be wrong, but it looks like you're braking a bit low on that rotor, what model is it? Could be for narrow type pads

I know what you mean, that’s fine, sometime it like that.

No idea. Came with the bike and I've not even changed pads yet, let alone adjusted anything.

I do need spare pads for it though hence asking about what type.

I reckon I'll need to clean the rotors too but it'll depend if I can sort it before the weekend (got a 200k planned on Sunday and won't be here Sat. So, I might just leave it be for now.