• Oh yeah it's cooler, makes better noises, but they're not fit and forget.

    Cold start and idle are two things that are hard to get right and need adjustments. A lot of people loophole that by setting the idle to >1k rpm but if you live in central and have to sit in stop start traffic until you get out of town then you have to deal with an engine idling at 1250rpm which starts to grate and everyone looks at you.

    My aftermarket ECU is not as good as say a Link G4, so the level of adjustment on the tune isn't as good, which means the drivability isn't as good in all driving situations.

    I think if you throw money at the problem then it can be a lot better, but mine is a home build. The ITB inlet manifold is home made by a friend of mine, everything has been about doing it cost effectively, but that means the end result isn't perfect.

    Alpha N (TPS) based tuning isn't as good as MAP tuning and you need a specialist to get it prefect, and I am not a specialist and it would appear the people I've paid in the past to create the map for my ECU aren't either.

  • Yeah interesting, TPS is probably the worst of my experience with ITBs, that and crank sensor reliability.

    For reference my setup is jenvey ITBs on a cast manifold from MTS, with a DTA S60 ECU, although the one I had is quite old hat by now and I’ll likely replace with haltech / link at some point.

    I was thinking of converting it to DBW aswell and getting rid of the throttle cable nonsense

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