Mechanics and Fixing Any Questions Answered

I see restrap do a set for 10 quid but I so rarely need these I'm not sure I need so many.

https://restrap.com/products/tyre-boot-kit

That actually looks like a better idea than the other stuff, at least, for a more permanent fix than the Park ones. Maybe I'll get one of these and add it to my "offroad" kit.

I like these because they stick on, but they're not durable so no good for permanent fix.
https://www.parktool.com/en-us/product/emergency-tire-boot-tb-2

For sure. At least if you use a crisp packet, you've eaten some crisps!

I've used rolled up crisp packets and they lasted for ages, that's me risking it for the fun of pushing the limits but if I'll have to have a permanent fix, I'll cut a sidewall off a used tyre (GP5000 is my favourite) and tape it on with some rim tape.

FWIW…
Ever since a memorable unfortunate ride in the 80s, I now ride with a 4 inch section of tyre. Weighs , what , nothing?
Ultimate boot. To concept prove it, before binning a worn tyre, cut carcass bead to bead , inserted boot and was able to inflate and ride to work. A bit thunk thunk but faster than walking or finding a hedge , only to be found next spring.
Bonus is it is right size to wrap around inner tube so that if you need to use, it has not had a hole chafed it. If only that were just a one of experience.

I wonder if just the rim tape would work on its own? It's pretty tough. Never thought of that until now (probably because I don't carry a fucking role of rim tape on my rides - should've done - would've saved me a day on my TransAm)

Hi all, Got a track octalink bb in a frame that I (+ LBS) am unable to remove with the normal shimano tool. Any recommendations as to why/ anyone experienced the same?

Have you heated it? They come with thread lock pre-applied, so if it was put in dry from new you might get a result from softening the glue.

On the other hand, if it was put into a steel frame dry and has got wet at any point in its life, it might be properly seized and you're going to have to cut it out.

Yeesh.. Thankyou!! The frame was custom built for the previous owner who I think barely used it. Was wary to heat but will try - is it silly to try boiling water so as to not harm the paint?

is it silly to try boiling water so as to not harm the paint?

It's an appropriate temperature, but you might need quite a bit to get the whole area up to the desired ~70°C

Heard - thank you very much for your help!

Don't know if I am in the right place but :
Just received 2 schwalbe big apple and one has a flat spot who seems to be permanent. I first thought it was from being stuck in the box during transit but even if I squeeze it to get its roundness it does nothing.
Do you think it will be cleared when mounted on rim with a tube or will I feel it while riding, ie I better ask for refund and get another one ?
They are for my kid carrier bike so I really want to avoid troubles.

Thanks.

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Try it and see.

Have you (or the lbs) tried with the tool in a vice?

Right, I will. But it seems to be a default from factory, even if I press/squeeze the wire, it does nothing on the flat spot.
:(

But you can't put as much pressure on it as compressed air, you've got before photos, see what it's like inflated, if it's all good then it's all good, if it's not then get a refund.

Have done that before with double or triple layers, when I say rim tape, hockey tape works just as well.

This is usually at bike polo pick-ups or tournaments and a bodge is required (not for me) for the many ill equipped players.

Have used as a tyre boot - fiver both new and old, crisp packet, back of a puncture patch wrapped in crisp packet, sidewall of a worn tyre.

Top tip, as silly as it sounds, sewing the hole/ripped bit works pretty darn well, if it is on the threaded section and you're running slicks a slight slit to enable the thread to sit below works wonder before you boot it up from the inside.

Depends.

Got photos of the frame and BB? What frame material? Also, what tools were used?

For stucked BBs I usually secure the BB tool with a Pedros tool, spanner of your your choice and a cheater bar.

Then hot water on the BB shell, leave it for 5 minutes and push down hard, hold it and increase torque.

Do not be tempted to yank at it, the key is to keep the pressure on and increasing it.

Might be obvious but what threading is the frame?

My favourite combo is a Park Tool BB tool, Park tool cheater bar, the aforementioned Pedros tool, a Brompton seatpost for extra leverage and hot water, have not been defeated yet.

If you're in London, drop me a PM and I'll be happy to give it a go.

Thanks all for the suggestions! Once had to bail on a ride and walk to the nearest train for this very reason because my ride partner did not take my advice to 'check your tyres' seriously, and riding with a 4 inch section of tyre sounds like genius. Now to wait for the next time I wear out a pair..

Thank for your help, i installed the tyre tonight and everything so far seems good.
I was maybe over panicking :)
Tube is for 47c max, tyre is 50c. Inflated to 2.5 bars, it won't explode ? I did put 25c tubes in 28c without issue but once again, it for my kid carrier bike so don't want to get trouble.

Tube is for 47c max, tyre is 50c. Inflated to 2.5 bars, it won't explode?

Overstretching tubes won't explode them instantly until you get to a much bigger stretch than that, but they can puncture more easily and deflate quicker when punctured.

Do not be tempted to yank at it, the key is to keep the pressure on and increasing it.

This is the go, if you don't have a tool you can hook up a rattle gun to. Way less torque required for impact (I guess there are instantaneous peaks that are pretty high, but the torque reaction off the tool is minimal due to its inertia).

Tube is for 47c max, tyre is 50c. Inflated to 2.5 bars, it won't explode ? I did put 25c tubes in 28c without issue but once again, it for my kid carrier bike so don't want to get trouble.

Put it this way.

I fitted a 700 x 23mm inner tube on a 650b 47mm tyres as I took the wrong tube.

I did not die.

Whats up with this rear mech? It’s completely non-tensioned and it won’t line up with the small cog. Bent mech hanger? It’s an islabike beinn 20 with a sram derailleur.

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It looks bent. Or that the hanger needs to be screwed in more.

Limit screws?

Could also just be cacked up if it’s previously been used mostly at the top of the block and hasn’t been shifted down to the wee end much/at all.