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  • Incidentally, I did a lot of our loft with left over PIR straight onto the rafters - boxes of crap on top of that. If you can find some cheap gumtree PIR might be worth a go, certainly a lot easier and quicker

  • Someone on here recommend these irwin chisels:
    https://www.screwfix.com/p/irwin-marples-bevel-edge-wood-chisel-set-4-pieces/2195x

    Happy with them, but I'm sure they were cheaper. So unless you'll use them a lot I'd probably get the £13 Magnusson 3 pack.

    Feel free to post how you get on as I have a similar job on my tdl.

  • I’ll have a measure and see if it’s square and I can get the right size with no trimming just a bottom cut.
    If I could do it all in a day I’ll see that as a win.

    @hugo7 will be in the new year but if I can find someone to do it for a reasonable price I’ll save myself the hassle and shame of bodging it.

  • depends on how much head height you have and how much you can afford to lose. We used the 175 ones because the existing joists gave us about 200mm of space and 375 total was enough. There is a point where extra insulation gives diminishing returns and you should be aware about not blocking off the eaves.

  • As stated already, the short ones are for restricted head room. Currently regs is 270mm loft insulation I think so 300mm gives you space for that + decent air gap.

    The boards might not like being walked on unless you have joists above the legs too. I just used the loft zone stuff which includes lightweight metal joists for not a massive price (their boards are a rip-off though)

  • In need of a sense check.

    We have very tatty old carpet on our stairs and landings (two flights of 14 steps, 2 landings) and I’m keen on ditching the carpet and renovating the wood. I’ve stripped the paint off a couple to see what’s underneath (see pics) and would be interested to hear from people who’ve done similar if the condition of the wood is good enough to make this worthwhile.


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  • That looks like an active woodworm infestation.
    Kill the things with chemicals (is Xylophen a thing in the UK?) before you go further.

  • I did wonder. Bugger

  • I'll be doing the same next year so progress pics and learnings would be geat.
    I like the tiles btw

  • Ah, go on then, what did you strip them with?

  • Just a carbide scraper

  • If you're planning to paint them I think they could look good.

    The amount of filler you'd need to use on the woodworm bits might detract from the look a bit if you wanted to just use oil.

  • Got a load of floorboards to get rid of. Posted them here a bit ago but they're still available.
    https://www.lfgss.com/conversations/401350/newest/

  • Personally I'd relay carpet after checking there's no active woodworm.


    ProsCons
    Looks NiceNoisy
    - Cold
    - Slippy
    - Utterly horrific ball ache of a job to strip

  • What's the forum recommended wood glue?

  • Toolchimp have some good offers on Hikoki at the moment: https://www.toolchimp.co.uk/flash-deals/hikoki-hot-deals


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  • Which wood or 'wood product'?

  • Do they also make garden hoes?

  • A chair, there's a loose leg on an otherwise good condition Ercol chair so ideally something that still works when applied thinly.

  • Is the joint just two flat surfaces or is there a dowel involved?

  • No, power tools only I believe.

  • Shame. I was very tickled by the idea of a hoe from Hikoki.

  • Very good! I totally missed the word play.

  • I'm quite into soudal pro 45p at the moment. It's quick and expands.

    Otherwise I use the blue/outdoor evo-stik. Although that takes forever to fully cure.

  • If you do go down that road as I did - it’s much easier to strip the treads and repaint the risers in white. Coarse sandpaper on a random orbital sander took an afternoon for me. Just make sure you use plastic sheets at the top and the bottom of the stairs so the dust doesn’t get everywhere

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    Home DIY

    Posted by Avatar for hippy @hippy

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