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chrisbmx116
ketsbaia
Quality city and will definitely go back again. Spent the first night drinking and eating around the 'hip' Cours Julian area, which was OK but probably trading on its reputation a bit. Nipped into the bar where Anthony Bourdain had a pastis and while it was OK, it wasn't as good as other places. Brasserie Communale probably the best place in the area, but there was plenty of choice and I only have one liver. Finished the evening at the Bière Academie near my hotel, which was decent without being amazing.
Following day spent wandering around the old port, the fort and the Mucem (museum of culture) before wandering around the streets of the le Panier district. An absolute joy as I was a bit hungover and there was lots of shade, plus loads of cool graffiti, narrow lanes and good cafés. Dined out later up near the Cathedral of Saint Victor at a Sicilian pizza place (Pizze e Sfizzi), which was great. Pretty much all Italian/Sicilian staff, excellent pizza and very good wine. Then stumbled upon Victor Bière, a brilliant little craft beer place just over the road. Highly recommended. Had a great range of local, French and international beers with six on tap and several well-stocked fridges.
All told, it felt a bit like Barcelona before the Olympics. Scuzzy, working class, bit of threat, incredible scenery and very alive. I barely scratched the surface but felt like I'd done loads. Taking the train there was a doddle too - Eurostar at 10.30am UK time and I was at Marseille St Charles by 6pm French time. £55 one way.