Rust - Rust proofing frames, Rusting treatment and prevention

With regards to dinitrol. I would use the more watery rust proofer to coat the inside of the frame liberally rather then the thicker was stuff because it may be too thick to work all the way down besides I think a waxy coating may be overkill (they are made for box section in cars such as door sills, and other cavities)
There are literally hundreds of anti rust treatments out there mostly built for the aerospace, car and marine industries. Por-15 is another well respected product.
Jp weigle framesaver seems to the only one made for bikes but considering he's a frame builder I suspect it's just a well known product rebranded.
Bob Jackson used to use framesaver and they've now swapped to dinitrol. So may be that a hint. Not sure which actual product tbh.

I bought a Holdsworth on eBay. Looks like it's pristine on first look. Inside the down tube and head tube are rust free, the BB shell has a tiny bit of surface rust on the inner surface at the bottom.

But I noticed these little barely noticeable worms on the front 10 inches of the top tube. I don't care cosmetically but I don't want to fall off the bike and die from a failure. Any cause for concern or is this common?

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Have some 531, 653, and 725 frames that I would like to protect.

Has anyone tried this stuff in their frame and fork?

Watching some YouTube comparisons this seems to be one of the best:
https://www.sportsbikeshop.co.uk/motorcycle_parts/content_prod/279751
https://www.bennetts.co.uk/bikesocial/reviews/products/motorcycle-maintenance-and-servicing/best-rust-corrosion-preventer-inhibitor

Apparently this is the same as Dinitrol:
https://www.silmid.com/coatings/corrosion-preventatives/Ardrox-AV8-Corrosion-Preventative-in-various-sizes/

These also look interesting and seem to have excellent reviews. I guess the S50 or UB would be fine for inside a bike frame (UC is clear, but it's not going to be seen anyway, inside the frame):
https://bilthamber.com/product/dynax-s50/
https://bilthamber.com/product/dynax-ub/
https://bilthamber.com/product/dynax-uc/

Also, sorry if this is stupid, but should I remove the headset and BB when applying something like this to the inside of the frame and fork, so it's the bare frame with nothing installed? Or just the BB? And if it is applied to the frame without anything installed, what do you need to do to the BB threads and headtube before greasing them, once the products above are applied? Just put the grease on top? I am guessing that won't work.

Also, sorry if this is stupid, but should I remove the headset and BB when applying something like this to the inside of the frame and fork, so it's the bare frame with nothing installed? Or just the BB? And if it is applied to the frame without anything installed, what do you need to do to the BB threads and headtube before greasing them, once the products above are applied? Just put the grease on top? I am guessing that won't work.

I don't see any need to remove anything beyond what you absolutely need to remove to get access to the breather holes so if dropping the fork out gets you into the top and downtube breathers, bob's your uncle. If pulling your cranks and seatpost out is easier, go that way. If you have bottle bosses in the downtube and bosses for a tt bag or cable routing or something in the top tube then you can always inject through those.

I guess you need to rotate the frame around to coat all surfaces so the fewer components on the easier that will be but headset and bb cups aren't going to make much of a difference.

I don't do any cleaning of anything before applying grease for assembly, I just wipe of anything that's ran out of breather holes and gotten on the outside of the frame. Mixing waxy oil and grease canny be that bad can it?

Maybe worth mentioning that you'll want to wait until you're sure that anything you've used is all dried up inside the tubes before you put disc pads or rotors anywhere near it. I once built too soon and had Dinitrol run out the seatstay and onto my rotor ehich then contaminated the pads. I have (temporarily) taped over the seat and chainstay breathers at the dropouts to stop any leakage when a speedy build has been required. Just remember to go back and remove the tape once the risk of drippage/leakage has gone.

Dynax s50 is the one. Bit messy but very stable and easy to apply. Make sure you buy the 360 degree spray wand.

I'd personally remove whatever you don't want dirty and blocks access to the frame. BB and cranks and fork/bearings but you can leave the headset cups in.

There was a guy on one of the forums years ago who did a back to back test over several months using various rust products on bits of steel tube bathed in salt water and left outside. The Fluid Film lanolin product came out way better than anything else. The J P Weigle Framesaver one sucked as I recall.

I use the Fluid Film now. The downside is it stays wet, so it can drip out of drain holes - just don’t put too much in.

Dynax s50 is the one

I have a 80% full can of this - the 360 nozzle got broken so I DIY'd it by melting the end of the tube then poking holes in the sides with a pin.

Free to anyone who can collect from SE8

No need to pull the headset cups etc., shove some crumpled up kitchen roll in each end of the head tube to stop it all coming out as you rotate the frame to distribute the product - that should keep the headset clean enough, then just wipe it.

Thanks for all the replies and info. Useful tips.

Also, a question about Bilt Hamber, either S50 or UB/UC:
Is it included in any long-term comparison tests vs other products? All I can find online is people in forums and on YouTube saying it works, but then ACF-50 has many people saying it works too, but performed poorly in the Bennetts test.

So unless I can see some evidence that BH products are better than XCP Rust Blocker, I might go with that.