Mechanics and Fixing Any Questions Answered

Location

He already said it's in his stem

Multitool sorted it this afternoon but thank you anyways!

OK, I'm totally foxed by this one. How do you take a Campagnolo square taper bottom bracket apart so you can fit it into the shell? On normal (i.e. any other brand I've used) ones, you just pull the left-side off then screw in each side. The Campagnolo does not seem to align with this incredibly simple principle. There must be a way, but I can't for the life of me work out what that is. Anyone?

you sure that you can't separate one of the bb cups? maybe seized due to dirt ?

Is it just meant to pull off? Doesn't feel like it, tbh. I guess it could be seized, but it felt mechanically on rather than just stuck.

OK, I put my back into it and it did separate. Panic over. Cheers.

Do I need to replace the stealthamajig on SRAM hoses if I just remove and reattach to levers without cutting hoses? SRAM shows the process with cutting hoses - and says must replace - which implies single use. I don’t need to cut hoses, just changing bars with internal routing but assume the replacement is about the compression olive deforming when first tightened?

Take a photo of what? The fucking pawl went over a balcony into a carpark we can't get into.

The other three are still in place, so it looks like I'll be buying a new set.

What's that? New wheel time? Oh ok then...

Hey come on, if two out of three ain't bad, then three out of four must be at least okay

No, it'll be fine. Shimano have the same advice but if you had to cut the olive off everytime you disconnected brakes then it would be a huge waste of hoses, and no one wants to charge a full hose replacement for swapping a lever.

I've reused olives when swapping brakes from Euro to UK with no issues.

Give it a go as it is and check for leaks, replace if needed.

It's ok, she found it.

That was good, maybe even rep worthy.

I hate doing ride wrap...

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Let’s talk cassettes.
Shimano ML5100 vs M7000 worth spending the extra? Why? I need 4 so the collective difference is quite noticeable.
Also a good cheap 11 speed chain, again I need 4 so the collective difference is quite a bit. Ta x

Unless weight is important to you, I don't think anyone could tell a difference in shifting. Can't really go wrong with Shimano chains, and they're optimised for each other. Shop around, there's so many good deals at the moment while the industry collapses in on itself

Thank you. But I’ve just ordered some sunrace ones as they were hella cheap and I needed 4 etc etc I’ve had them before and they were good enough.

Alright, I already have an idea but what do you guys think?

I've got a classic frame and I'll like to di2 it.

I'll probably skip the internal routing and I'll be running it external with shrink wrap on the cable points on the frame.

My question is, yay or nay?

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I reckon it's one thing to MGOOF a bike, but if you ditch the mechanical shifting I'd say you're losing a vital part of its point.

With all new gear on it, it's grandad's axe; still the same bike. But I reckon you might eventually agree electronic shifting would get in the way of its character somehow, and the build will be a bodge unless you go hard and make it irreversible.

^ this.

Debraze all the cable routing and respray it then fit a wireless groupo or it’s going look like a bodge.

Stiff chain links. Had a stiff link which I ended up removing and replacing with a quick link. It was initially a bit stiff still. After a couple of k's it seems to be fine. Safe to ride?

Cables run so sweet with all externally routed

Did you do the side to side bending thing? That usually frees up stiff links.

Get SRAM AXS instead, the cheaper Apex would work wonder.

Tried it but didn't work.

More force is always the answer.

Was it stiff after you'd joined it or from new? Seems odd that you've swapped in a quick link and it's still an issue, unless of course you missed the actual stiff link or joined in the quick link with a pin and it's your joining that's causing the stiffness. Try the side bend again and check that the pin in your chain tool is straight and you've equalised the pin on both sides of the chain.