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• #7852
Thanks, that makes sense. Maybe will just try a slimmer regular cassette spacer then
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• #7853
You could just chuck a 2mm washer between the hub and the frame. If it works you then just need to redish the wheel to centre the tyre. #StraightToBodgeOrHack
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• #7854
Bouncy bikes, is it an easy job to remove the rear triangle on a spesh chisel? Do you just take out the bolts and pull? Or is there more to it? Someone wants a hand stripping their bike to paint it.
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• #7855
Usually, yeah. Just make sure to not drop any washers or spacers, and remember where they go back. You'll need to pull the bearings if it's being repainted, so may as well replace them all while you're there
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• #7856
Cool, I’ll give them a hand then (do it for them).
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• #7857
All,
Sorry if these are stupid questions but if you’re not sure, you ask.
Is there a difference between rim brake shifters and disc brake shifters? I’m talking purely cable here, not hydraulic.
I have an 11 speed set up. Can I run Shimano shifters with a SRAM rear mech? Again, cable not hydraulic.
Thanks in advance for your help.
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• #7858
Is there a difference between rim brake shifters and disc brake shifters? I’m talking purely cable here, not hydraulic.
They're just cable or hydraulic, the disc calipers are either short/road pull to match them or long/MTB pull to match V-brakes.
I have an 11 speed set up. Can I run Shimano shifters with a SRAM rear mech? Again, cable not hydraulic.
Not really, the problem here has nothing to do with cable or hydraulic though, Shimano and SRAM pull different amounts of gear cable, the hydro and cable shifters use the same mechs within the brand and speed generally.
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• #7859
Thanks so much. That's really helpful.
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• #7860
Anyone worked with a FD4700 before with a triple front? Was helping a friend with his bike and can’t get this to shift into the largest chainring with the high limit backed out all the way, and feels almost like the derailleur doesn’t go far out enough (I tried moving it manually to see if it was a cable tension thing) and have no idea why. Pictures show the FD when at max.
3 Attachments
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• #7861
FD4700 before with a triple
It's not supposed to work, there's an FD-4703 for triple use
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• #7862
FD-4703
Sorry, was referring to the groupset generically and yes it is a 4703 with the bigger cage - it shifts up twice (you can see the large chainring lined up in the middle of the cage in the photos) but the second upshift just doesn't seem to be able to push the chain up.
On second thought, would turning the whole mech (it is band-on) so that the tail of the cage points further outwards help? Wonder if the issue is that the cage may not be perfectly parallel with the chainring (or going further, if it being slightly skewed towards the outside of the bike might help with shifting).
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• #7863
Are the rings/chain worn?
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• #7864
And is it the cable routed correctly, there's a little stop you need to go round by the clamp, that can also be flipped if needed to compensate for the approach angle of the cable, they need a fair amount of tension from memory.
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• #7865
Is the shifter triple?
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• #7866
I just changed out his chain, rings don't seem sharktoothed, and yes definitely a triple shifter - it does click up to the middle ring then clicks up (not the trim) again, just not enough! Groupset seems to be original to the bike but got it secondhand so clearly been monkeyed around with.
I think from memory the cable may have been incorrectly routed (to left side of pinch bolt rather than to the right) and have asked my friend to try that and report back. But am pessimistic given that manually pushing the derailleur didn't seem to be able to move it any further out, nor did pushing further on the shifter (my 2x shifter has some give past the top gear)..
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• #7867
L limit screw isn't interfering with it? I remember on some mechs they can get in the way of the H limit if they're miles in or out?
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• #7868
What happens if you unclamp the cable, remove limit screws and move the cage by hand?
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• #7869
That's the thing that puzzled me, I tried that (well not removed but the limit screw was well backed out) and it didn't seem to go any further than what's in the picture now, though the chain was in third at that point so maybe that got in the way of me moving it back and forth. FDs should be fairly straightforward things, this one just seems not to want to cooperate and I know some FDs can be tricky to set up (converter position etc.) so I wanted to check if there were known nits with the triple shimano ones!
@snottyotter didn't realise the two could interact but he was dropping his chain off the small ring so I had tightened the L limit screw a few turns and it was fairly inwards by that point. Almost seems like the DS crank is too far outboard actually. Are these ever installed with spacers? Definitely didn't see one between the BB and the frame.
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• #7870
didn't realise the two could interact
They might not on these ones, but I've seen it on some. Is it missing the inner plastic skid plate?
Could be a bit bent too, maybe just go 1x. -
• #7871
Just get the chain out and try it by hand again. If it's still maxed out maybe the chainline is not good.
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• #7872
Can someone help me drill out a rounded bolt out of my stem please! I've tried everything (even trying to drill it out myself)
<3
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• #7873
Photos? Possibly.
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• #7874
Location
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• #7875
It looks like there's plenty of clearance to the chainstay, so you could have a look if someone has assembled a spacer where it isn't needed. Also worth double checking that the whole crank is assembled properly. I once fiddled about with a front mech for 10 mins before realising a wave washer was missing and the whole crank could slide around in the BB.
You can’t do that with an 11t smallest cog. It sits on the end of the splines. It can’t slide significantly further left.
You might be able to do it with a 12t, but that make your interference problem worse.