Mechanics and Fixing Any Questions Answered

No idea but I think I have a spare Shimano dropper (or maybe it was suspension lockout) lever kicking around. I wonder if that would work?

I never do this as I've never had to but I've heard you can put an offcut of inner inside the outer and cut both at the same time.

Hey Guys, any tips on how to get this crank arm out? It's completely seized. I tried hammering it with a rubber mallet but the frame being carbon I didnt insist. It didnt move at all...
I soaked it in W40 overnight, still no movement.

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If it's going to move, this style of blind bearing puller will move it without any of the forces going through the carbon fibre. Once you've drilled out the bearing cages, though, it will fall out easily enough just by taking the drive side bearing out of the shell with the now free NDS inner race.

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Rubber mallet will be no good at providing the shock required to break the corrosion bond, I'd try a bit of wood on the end of the axle and a sharp tap with a metal hammer.

Kind offer, thank you, the lever is still intact, just the adaptor. I bought what I could find on eBay but they're the wrong ones. So I'll just buy new from PNW now someone else has done the searchy but for me!

taking the drive side bearing out of the shell with the now free NDS inner race.

Can't access the drive side bearing, it's blocked by the chainring :/ (shimano XT, cant remove with the cranks on)

@M_V not moving at all. I might go buy a dead blow hammer tomorrow to see if that works ...

Check the manual that there’s not a locking bolt somewhere in the ds crank?

Can you put the crank back on the end of the splines and ride it about to loosen the whole thing?

Do not recommend.

Seriously thought, go do what @M_V said, he's right that the rubber mallet make fuck-all difference as it need an impact, piece of wood, wack with hammer etc.

Worst case scenario? bottom bracket coming off along with the crank spindle.

Can't access the drive side bearing

You don't need to. Drill out the cage on the NDS bearing as though you were getting ready to use the blind bearing puller. Since the axle won't yet flop about, you'll probably have to grind a slot with your Dremel in the outer race to get the balls out. Now the NDS inner race will pass freely through the NDS outer race and the only thing stopping you from pushing the whole assembly out through the drive side is the resistance of the drive side outer race in the shell.

Can't access the drive side bearing, it's blocked by the chainring

The DS bearing may come out of the frame, attached to the spindle, if you drill the NDS bearing and knock the cranks out with the NDS inner bearing race still stuck to the spindle, otherwise it'll come out when said inner race gets to the DS inner race.

Too slow.

CO2 cannister into the axle + bigger, harder hammer.
Rubber mallets are mostly useless for things on bikes that require hammers.

They're good to try first for things that shouldn't be stuck, after that they're useless. The softer, replaceable heads on things like the park hammer work better, but sometimes you need something hard and a big swing.

Well thanks for the tips, it's too late to hammer anything without causing drama with the neighbors but I'll give the wood/hammer method a go tomorrow.

Mechanical brake and gear drop bar brifter that’ll work with a clutch/large capacity rear mech, an I onto plums with that combo?

Also, I know the Dia Compe Uno is meant to be the bees knees of bar end friction shifters, does anyone know if the much cheaper Ene thumb shifter is as good?

I’ve had a ligament repair surgery on my right thumb and am worried that I won’t be able to push the up shift lever on the rapid fire type shifter that’s currently on my fbnpna Spa Rove so I’m considering either converting it to drop bars or just swapping the shifter for something that I can shift with fingers or a combo of fingers and thumb rather than just thumb.

I previously had a microshift 10 speed thumby so could get another of those but I’m tempted by the chat of the nicer ‘feel’ of the Dia Compe shifters.

A thumb shifter would also give me the option to fit it under the bar on the left side and I can control it with fully working hand.

Mechanical brake and gear drop bar brifter that’ll work with a clutch/large capacity rear mech

SRAM force / rival 1 goes up to 42t

I have a 10sp deore cassette on 105 hub that is slightly loose without cassette spacer, nice and properly snug with the spacer. Problem is that using the spacer in the usual place pushes the smallest cog too near the drop outs, and the chain interferes with the hanger (it’s originally a 126 spaced frame).

So I’m thinking to put a spacer the other side of the cassette to tighten things up, ie. between small cog and the locking. I want something like part 12 in the diagram below, except 1 or 2 mm thick, rather than super thin like this part below actually is . Does this exist?

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I run Sram double tap or bar ends for exactly the same reasons (fucked up thumb/hand) as said above sram will shift 42t. I’ve got Microshift too and have used a uno before. I think they feel nicer because they have a longer better shaped lever. Functionally they are the same.
Previously I too have done the shifter on the left and fuck that took some getting used to, but it worked fine. TBH if you like flat bars it’s the way I would go.

The ratcheting mechanism should be the same on the Dia Compes

Cheers all.

I did a bit more googling and discovered there’s an 8, 9 & 10 speed Ene thumby which has the old school ribbed edge lever and then an 11 speed which looks like the much hailed bar end shifter and although it’s slightly more expensive its (generally) about half to two thirds the price of the bar end version for some reason.

My current drivetrain is all 10 speed link glide and it’s really unclear how compatible that is with anything other than link glide so I kinda fancy just getting a friction shifter regardless of my thumb so that I don’t have to worry about that stuff.

Got a nasty click under hard front braking on my MTB, which in my heart of hearts I know is probably the crown steerer. But before I start the warranty process, I wouldn't mind taking the headset cups out and reinstalling, just to be sure. Who the hell makes ZS66 headset drifts? It's an FSA no55 headset for 1.8 taper forks. I cannot find one anywhere. Ideally need it to work with a Park HHP2

Well hammer didnt do shit. I'll see if I can get a dremel and the tool you were mentionning from a friend.
I drilled and remove the first plastic seal, thinking it would help but it just revealed more junk.

Edit : placed the frame between two pieces of furniture. Asked a friend to brace it and then hammered like my life depended on it. Finally got it out :]

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