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• #9477
Well this next one might be for you then.
One of my oldest friends, also called Mads, needs a new gravel bike. He's not in a position where he can buy a new custom frameset so we are trying a different approach. I have had non specific tubes and bits floating around the workshop for a while and we are going to build him a frame with this.
You all might remember him from my early work. He was 50% of Hulsroy & Gundersen and was a big part of developing the cargo bikes I built back in 2012-2014.
Anyways, I think I will just put the frame together and he will file and finish it himself. We no longer share a workshop but he has his own where he lives.Frame geo will replicate his existing Trek but modernised. Longer head tube and lower BB... and disc brakes. AND the cable routing will be Happyman Cable Huggers™
Dropouts are yet be decided, but it's an obvious candidate for trying something new and I have some flat plate Magic Beans in mind, which I think I might also want to use on @Tijmen 's new Rando.
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• #9478
Nice. I always enjoy a project/design that makes use of what is available rather than the perfect combination of everything possible.
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• #9479
Same. I consider myself a Bricoleur.
Obstructions makes decision making easier as well and grounds the design.
This is exactly what 3d printing suffers from imo -
• #9480
Anyways, managed to continue designing these dropouts I was talking about ^
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• #9481
Neat. Are the two pink parts brazed together? Is there some kind of locking geometry between the hanger and the tab?
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• #9482
Thank you. Yes that is the plan for now.
The stainless axle receiver is turned on the lathe and then TIG welded onto the flatplate dropout on both side. The two-holed flange is silver soldered onto the dropout when then dropouts have been brazed to the frame. By chamfering the backside of the bigger hole in that flange I should be able to get it flush with the DS dropout face. Gear hangers can then be out of stainless or alu depending on what I can get lasercut.
All of this is heavily inspired by Hunter Cycles but optimised for my workflow and fab preferences.
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• #9483
You need something on the inner face of the dropout, connected to the hanger, to stop it moving to the right. Or I need to have more coffee :)
Looks great either way. I'm also a fan of the bricoleur approach.
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• #9484
You need more coffee. The hanger is threaded and will be pulled towards the face of the flange. And because the flange is brazed to the dropout nothing will move once bolted
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• #9485
The only concern I would have is that there's nothing keeping the bolts or hanger captive once the wheel is installed. Hanger bolts have a habit of creeping out after repeated stress from a shifting derailleur. Admittedly, that's normally with the tiny M3 jobbies that most brands use, so maybe with a couple of beefy M5s it won't be an issue.
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• #9486
Fair. I guess I will have to test it. I was thinking M4 bolts and locktite would do the job.
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• #9487
Just thinking of the number of times I've seen kickstands come loose that have two M6 bolts like this:
If you can integrate some kind of pin of geometry that keeps the plate locked in position, the bolts have a much better chance of staying put. -
• #9488
Have you considered Nyloc/Tuflok/Torq-Patch bolts instead?
I guess you (hopefully) won't have to change the hanger that often - but they can be used again and you don't have to wait for the loctite to cure
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• #9489
You'd solve that with a dab of blue threadlocker no?
I'd maybe use nice stainless torx countersinks to mount instead of the socket head, but that's personal preference.
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• #9490
You need more coffee.
Done
the flange is brazed to the dropout
Got it, I hadn't understood that from the previous discussion.
I'd want the pink bit to be much more stiff than the hanger, otherwise the removable nature of the hanger is a bit redundant. Hanger is shown as thicker than pink bit, so presumably hanger to be machined aluminium alloy?
If the hanger did have a flange on the inside face of the dropout, you'd be able to avoid brazing the pink bit, be able to replace it if it did become damaged, and would have a consistent relationship between the derailleur and the outer face of the hub axle - which should improve shifting consistency.
Just my thoughts of course.
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• #9491
Not really. Thread lock is good for preventing against loosening with vibration, but higher shear loads will eventually break it.
The other advantage of having the hanger sandwiched against the hub rather than outside the frame is that you end up with a more consitent alignment of wheel and derailleur. -
• #9492
All valid thoughts i will reply to when I have a minute ^
In the meantime I would like to gauge interest in my Bidons for you UK people. I am working on an order from Stayer and they would like to know how many Bidons they could sell. Could you let me know if you'd purchase the Fungus Bidon from them? 🙏
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• #9493
Yas x 2
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• #9494
Not any more sadly, expensive month+got gifted bottles by a friend recently.
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• #9495
Count me in, I'll have a couple.
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• #9496
Yes!!!! Please buy these so I can give my kids presents this xmas
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• #9497
If you're shipping more cages to Stayer, I'll take a couple of standard size symmetricals too.
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• #9498
Real real nice this ! Like ishanti but for bike nerdz. 🤓
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• #9499
I'll put them on my Xmas list.
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• #9500
❤️🍄
I FUCKING HATE! internal routing. External or go wireless that’s the choice. For us with limited disposable income at the moment that means losing a couple of watts to a bit extra cable out in the breeze. (I can live with brake hoses going inside, because you shouldn’t ever need to replace them)