Home DIY

You lunatic. Is that a boat?

Yes- an i550, which is a little the worse for wear currently.

Exciting! Looking forward to the excessive upgrades :)

At least with a boat you are certain of having to brilliant days. The day you buy it and the day you sell it ;)

I just need to bury it etc now…

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we're still on changing lightbulbs mate! is it just a decorative boat? - are you sure you want advice comment

Honestly, I wouldn't recognise acrylic paint to go on vast areas of bare plaster, unless under finishing paper (guess it's sold as an bullseye alternative - and can often be better) . It'll just be about the finish you want - it maybe a little shiny, no harm though

I got a set of Ercol chairs for a good price that need refinishing.

One has a crack in the middle of the seat pad and I'm not sure what the best thing would be to fill it with. I get the feeling that a slightly darker line would be better than one that's too light and "natural" wood filler tends to be quite light.

How dark is the Ronseal dark one?

Is there a different product that might work for this?

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Everbuild wood filler, the little tubs which are available in wood pine, oak, mahogany etc but also light/dark stainable.

It's not my boat - belongs to a friend of a friend. He, however, is going to cut it up and bin it as he doesn't have the time to fix the corner. I've said I'd be interested in fixing it in order to use it to practice sailing in something with a bit more keel than the dinghies I've been using.

The rotten wood was confined to an area roughy 0.5m3 at the rear left of the boat - not normally an area that gets a huge amount of stress but this boat is designed to heel, then (in 8 knots+ of wind) rise out of the water and plane on the chine (side) which runs all the way to the back.

However, it's a corner, so three sections coming together which, with a bit of reinforcement means that I think I can get the strength back in there.

Back to the question - the epoxy is stronger than the wood, and when thickened is very happy to fill up quite large gaps. So! Do I want to make my gaps tight (minimal epoxy) or loose (lots of epoxy)? I'm tending toward putting a bevel on (as mentioned) purely to get more glue in there.

Usually small skin on frame boats are built using scarf joints, but achieving neat, precise scarfs on curved panels in situ is, I think, optimistic.

Do I want to make my gaps tight or loose

Carry On thread > >

I’m getting feed up now. I don’t know it is shows, but that bit of road just the other side of the hedge has had 4 club rides go past on it this morning so far 🤬

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Finally sorted out my wood stock with a couple of new shelves to separate the planks / offcuts from the sheets.

So much neater and easy to access things.

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Nice shelves. Where's the timber?

I don’t understand

I would have just drilled through and tapped the neighbours’ supply at the start tbqf.

Haha! I wish! To do that I’d have needed even more pipe. Straight to golf club thread.

After a closer look the following morning at about 6am the obvious struck me, I haven't the foggiest... So no rambling - go lose joints, how and what order fknows

Another case closed for the DIY files

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Did you install your new washing machine upside down?

bang -on

I just meant you don't have an overload or random crap piece of timber like I seem to have ended up with.

I'd do half laps and make them as tight as possible. Using the epoxy as the glue it will saturate out nicely even with tight joints and neater is always better.

Ah. That would be the 4 tip trips previous to putting the shelves up.

We have a laundry "room" (glamorised cupboard) within the loft conversion of our house. There's a washer and separate dryer in there, and little other space due to reduced head height within the eaves. A big part of this space was taken up by a cold water tank for an unvented heating and hot water system, which was in an uninsulated cupboard-within-a-cupboard.

I've just had the whole heating system replaced with a vented system, which involved taking out that huge cold water tank. I can now see that the previous owner had an old school dryer with trunking that took the moisture outsize, via a hole in the exterior wall. I looks like they've taken out a brick or 2.

I'd like to get rid of that hole in the exterior wall for fairly obvious reasons. Does anyone have any smart ideas the best way to get that plugged quickly from the inside? I don't want to get up on a huge ladder to address it from the outside. I also don't want to just wait until I can arrange and afford a builder to properly repair it with bricks and mortar due to it being bloody cold right now.