Any question answered...

Socket with an extension through the other bearing to twat, or if you've got a vice you might be able to rig something up push it out.

I can do that, but the problem is that the linkage doesn’t have a flat surface to rest on for the twatting. Same for the vice, which is what I used to easily extract the others.

The bearings are installed with retaining compound, so they are hard to break free before tapping out.

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I think I'd try supporting just the lower edge on some wood or the edge of a bench and be careful, or make a little step up for that edge and the rest on a bench.

Been trying…not budging.

Is there a smarter way or do I need to buy a blind puller and slide hammer? I’m not even sure that would generate enough force. I think it needs pressure from a vice or similar.

(Please no one say hardtail.)

Heat will soften the retaining compound. Which should help.

Heat will soften the retaining compound

And expand the linkage more than the bearing, so it's a win-win

Heatgun enough?

Heatgun enough?

Plenty, you should only need to hit about 70°C. Going above 250°C will destroy the temper of the aluminium alloy.
Heat the linkage, not the bearing, that way any heat going to the bearing has to go through the retaining compound, and you optimise the temperature differential which will add to the existing advantage of there being a coefficient differential.

@gbj_tester @Ben689908

That was ridiculously easy. Retaining compound is actually great, isn’t it.

Thanks everyone.

Result!

(Does the installation guide ask for retaining compound? That bearing shouldn’t go far if I’m right in thinking it’s a suspension pivot)

Yes it does. It asks for high strength, but I have some medium here so I’ll use that when installing replacement bearings.

OK @gbj_tester @Ben689908

now it’s bearings in the freezer, right? Overnight?

Nah just for an hour is fine ime

Don't lick them when you first take them out.

Maybe @gbj_tester can help me out here, I currently have the light bracket pictured below, but would like to make one out of some sheet metal rather than round as the bracket will be mounted between the fork crown and a caliper brake, so want it to be as slim as possible, whilst being sturdy enough to hold the light steady.
So, what thickness would be suitable, and what metal (stainless, brass, another)?
I have access to a bench vice and other workshop tools to aid cutting and bending.

what thickness would be suitable, and what metal

Stainless steel flat stock with the same stiffness as the current twin rods. The formulae for planar 2nd moments of area for common shapes are readily found online.

Thank you. I'll trip off down that little rabbit hole later this evening.

Why bother if it fits? The current bracket might interfere with the caliper, but with some bendage could be made to fit right?
Just get a longer allen key brake nut if you're unsure if there's enough nut holding the thread. Alternatively fit rear brake in front of it has a longer bolt and use front at rear with longer brake nut.

Alternatively fit rear brake in front of it has a longer bolt and use front at rear with longer brake nut

Wrong way around, the bolt is shorter on a rear caliper.

It's a shit design for going behind a caliper brake, great if you've got canti or v brakes.

How do you decide which way to install?

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Which flavour of Loctite do I want? I have a bass drum pedal with a few bolts to take it apart for transportation and storage. The bolts always come loose and end up rattling around in the case between uses. It's a matter of time before I lose one. I want to be able to loosen and tighten the bolts easily.

I've heard a lot of people say that, all other things being equal, you should install them with the numbers out so you can identify the replacement bearings to order before remove them next time.

Blue

Maybe you could go old school and try beeswax? Doesn't lock on but definitely helps retain nuts and bolts.