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• #1377
Fun!!! Is it in reasonable condition?
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• #1378
Gearbox is shot so that will be a fun learning project. And then a good amount of rusty spots but nothing critical, no leaks and all spots that are doable with our welding skills! And then the interior is dated and dirty, as you’d expect
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• #1379
Brave project!
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• #1380
This^! Good luck!
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• #1381
Thanks both!
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• #1382
I have no idea why I have this on my PC.
Was I looking at vans in 2011?
It surely must've been for a joke.
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• #1383
Does anyone have a decent amount of experience about alternator+solar panel based power systems?
If so, what's the go-to, cheap and cheerful whilst also being robust system?
Previously I've put together a solar charging system with Victron stuff, which was straightforward but far from cheap.
Engine under consideration has a 40amp alternator, requires a battery to start it but it's a twin cylinder, 500cc unit so I doubt it's going to take a huge amount of oomph to spin it. Diesel however, so a mental compression ratio if like me you are only really familiar with petrol.
What needs power:
- Bilge pump/s
- Navigation lights
- Depth sounder
- Panel to display output of depth sounder
- VHF radio
- LED lighting
- An inverter that could charge power tool battery chargers (the inverter to be turned off when not in use
- I'd imagine two batteries in this scenario? One to spin the engine over and one to power the ancillaries.
Yes it's a bit of an odd camper, but the principals are very similar I think!
- Bilge pump/s
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• #1384
Probably already stumbled across this
https://faroutride.com/electrical-system/
but these guys were helpful back when I was sorting my T2
edit also https://nohma.com
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• #1385
My kaise dmt1250 abso 50a was good, and cheaper than victron.
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• #1386
If I were starting from scratch today I'd need a very good reason not to build it around one of those big camping battery / "power station" / generator things, because you get the functionality of several expensive Victron boxes without a nest of wiring. Plus a lithium battery is actually happy being discharged, which lead acid / AGM / etc is not.
Find one that lets you keep the alternator (car) and the solar plugged in at the same time, because they often share a socket.
You'll still need a lead acid starter battery, because it's the only thing it's good for.
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• #1387
Interrupting solar chat with a quick update: we’ve been working on putting a new clutch kit into the Trafic for the last two months. Took way too long, will never do this again, don’t recommend it at all! But, it seems to be in as it should be, now all that’s left is charging the battery so we can at least start the thing… at least we could finally move it inside now.
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• #1388
Looking at vans and one has come up as stolen then recovered all categorised as C all the way back in 2008 - should I just walk away? I get that reselling value is affected when categories are mentioned... Anything I should know?
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• #1389
I hadn’t thought of this but it’s a great idea.
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• #1390
Have you got a boat?! On mine I run all the above apart from an inverter from a 100w panel and a 115 amp hr leisure battery. Bought from sunstore in Worthing as a package including controller and expensive 3m tape to fix panel to cabin top. Bought a cheap switch panel from eBay that has lighter socket and 2 x USB and that serves to charge cabin light and phone/iPad for navigation. Simple set up and has lasted 3 years with no issues. There is an extra output on the controller that could charge an engine battery if required but as I have a petrol outboard I don’t need that
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• #1391
Leisure batteries... What should I get? Acquired a van with a dead autolite class A which can be had for sub £100 on Amazon but it seems to have rather poor reviews. Any advice would be welcome and is something totally new to me.
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• #1392
I had a Halfords one and was fine.
I have a trade card which gives 20% off batteries. Hence buying that one. But sure you could borrow it virtually.
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• #1393
Lead acid batteries are all shit and prone to turning into bricks at the slightest "mistreatment" (e.g. using them, or not using them) so they'll all have bad reviews. Buy the cheapest one and assume you'll be replacing it not far down the line.
Disconnect it when the van isn't in use for any length of time (unless you have solar). Check the voltage and charge it up periodically.
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• #1394
I take mine out when not in use and keep it permanently plugged into a maintenance charger.
It is a Halfords leisure battery and is probably 6 or 7 yrs old -
• #1395
Gracias. If the offer still stand, sure please. I'll get one and a trickle charger for when not in use as per other comments, seems like a reasonable solution. It does have a split charger installed but I fear there was a misuse and both battery's drained as I've already swap the vans one.
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• #1396
So this happened some months ago. Family member has had it for 10+ years. It hasn't been on the road for the last 1,5 years. It's pretty shit on the outside, okish underneath and decent on the inside.
It's a '95 Multivan with a 2.5 litre petrol engine and an automatic gearbox. Seats 7 and sleeps 4, but will remove some seats to fit a slightly bigger kitchen instead of the small one it has in the back. That will be replaced with with some storage for clothes etc.
I've started sorting out the rust and cleaning the interior and found some decent VW alloys in the shed.
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• #1397
It did look slightly better after a quick touch of the pressure washer.
Fabric on the pop top is worn and has a few holes, so will sew a new one.
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• #1398
Very cool
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• #1399
Nice! Keep us updated with your progress.
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• #1400
Nice project
Oops, new project!
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