3D Printing

this is why we got the X1.
more time printing, less time being pissed off that I can't print without having to fuck around fixing stuff.

Could be, trouble is I'm in Liverpool so doubt you wanna post.

Yeah, sorry. Closest I could get is Birmingham. Up there regularly for the football.

Took @HatBeard advice (from way back) and printed a poop bin. The quality of this thing is ridiculous!

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Didn't get my tolerances quite right on this first attempt, but holy shit what a rush. A few hours of CAD and boom I'm holding it in my hand.

With a 3d printer, every day is Christmas day.

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CAD question: if I'm splitting a part with a surface (as above), what kind of gap should I introduce? I guess it varies a lot depending on various factors, and that a bit of trial and error is expected, but what would a typical value be?

EDIT: 0.2mm did the trick 🤌

having some adhesion issues with my textured plate and warping so thought i'd give the "dish soap" cleaning advice a go.

now nothing sticks to it at all.

try to search for info on how to remedy, only find results saying how perfectly it works.

luckily i have 2 textured plates so i can leave it for another day. but wtf.

Scrub with wet baking soda (mainly for it's mild abrasive qualities) - rinse - wipe with spirit vinegar (chemistry) - rinse (distilled water if possible) - clean once more with isopropyl alcohol - if things still don't stick, you'll probably need your other textured plate...

if I'm printing something with a tolerance fit, I tend to do print a few small slices at different tolerances before doing a final print.
it can vary per printer / nozzle / filament etc.

another thing I try and do when designing parts is to make things as simple as possible.

for example on your tile cover, I wouldn't have introduced any unnecessary shape to the outer surfaces as you are using up extra filament on support structures when it could have sat flat on the print bed.
also, any shaping can become a weak point structurally where things may need to flex such as saddle rails.

maybe sounds a bit boring, but that's just my thought process when I'm designing something.

feel free to ignore!

a pic of the fitted front mudguard lowering bracket thing. lowers the guard by about 10mm and has about 15mm of further adjustment.

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Thanks for the advice!

Yeah, raising most of the surface off the bed was definitely a mistake. The underside of the thing looked like garbage, even with support structures in place (is that normal?).

On my second run, I actually rotated the two parts so that they printed upright. This massively reduced the amount of horizontal overhang, and that helped a lot, but it was still a workaround to a problem that didn't have to exist in the first place.

The underside of the thing looked like garbage, even with support structures in place (is that normal?).

yes, although you can always finish surfaces by hand after printing if you need to get a smooth surface, but it's not something I've done much of.

rotated the two parts so that they printed upright.

print direction and overhangs is a main consideration for me when I'm designing stuff. e.g. I always try and orientate curves / holes so they print vertically from the bed as this makes them circular rather than faceted

Yeah i do that a lot too.

I sometimes split my parts and design in features to join them back together again to avoid support if possible

Somehow the stickiness issue spread to my other plate, swapped in a resin plate i was sent to review and full plate thin walled print is sticking to it perfectly, faultless first layer, no warping.

No idea what is up with the two textured plates though. Been working fine up until now and my printing activity is very low volume.

Definitely odd.
No doubt you're using the same filament, and you've probably checked the bed always heats uniformly and the Z axis sensor is working correctly? (past problems with my ageing Prusa clone!)
At one time I had issues with a cleaner at work using Pledge - the overspray seemed to go everywhere - but I guess you'd notice that kind of contamination at home.

it's an odd one, on the plus side i now have a fully cleaned and recalibrated machine from trying to trouble shoot all the possible causes so since i swapped the resin plate in i've been making exceptional prints again.

I'm realising a childhood dream by getting into combat robotics (albeit in a 150g weight category instead of 150kg)

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that's super cool!
is this something you've designed yourself, or a kit?

also, nice keyboard 😉

Similar cutting mat too!

The controller board is an off-the-shelf thing. I just needed to solder on some motors, a battery conncter and a servo. The cad is all me 😎

awesome! post some updates when it's built!

bought a spray bottle of elbow grease degreaser and went to town on my 2 textured pei plates.

great success...

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Many many days of printing and i have my finished multiboard wall ready to go up once the electrician is finished in my workshop tomorrow. Plan is to put it everywhere theres open wall space eventually

I'm using their bolt locking mounts and "permanent" snaps on any load bearing connection to make it as strong as possible. Can also remove each 9x9 tile by unscrewing the bolts on that tile leaving the rest in place so its easy to work with.

Fixed to 12mm ply wall it should be able to hold things no issue.

Gonna take me months to print all the various mounts but with my printer out in the workshop now i'll have power i can run it 24/7

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Would someone be willing to print and post this? And what would it cost approximately?

https://www.printables.com/model/718564-ikea-vallhorn-rain-cover

Pots!

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