The cones aren’t anything exclusive. Given how pitted that one is I’d expect the cup is shot too, which makes replacement a better option if it’s a customer’s bike.
The shield isn’t built in. You can remove it by:
1- Brace the cone very gently in a vice. You don’t want to clamp the cone, you want to support the shield, as much of it as you can manage, with the flat external surface facing up.
2- Add penetrant oil of choice. Let sit a bit.
3- Using a wooden or plastic mallet, give the cone a whack. If it didn’t budge, you didn’t hit it hard enough. The trick is to knock out the cone without damaging the shield: the key is supporting as much of the shield as possible and hitting the cone squarely.
4- Press fit or gently whack the shield onto new cone if required.
If you have a bike with a Shimano/Sram/modern Campag rear derailleur, you can unscrew the derailleur from the hanger and try to fit the cone on the exposed bolt. If it fits, it’s M10.
The cones aren’t anything exclusive. Given how pitted that one is I’d expect the cup is shot too, which makes replacement a better option if it’s a customer’s bike.
The shield isn’t built in. You can remove it by:
1- Brace the cone very gently in a vice. You don’t want to clamp the cone, you want to support the shield, as much of it as you can manage, with the flat external surface facing up.
2- Add penetrant oil of choice. Let sit a bit.
3- Using a wooden or plastic mallet, give the cone a whack. If it didn’t budge, you didn’t hit it hard enough. The trick is to knock out the cone without damaging the shield: the key is supporting as much of the shield as possible and hitting the cone squarely.
4- Press fit or gently whack the shield onto new cone if required.