Mechanics and Fixing Any Questions Answered

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  • Cyclehoop operates them, not the council.

  • I am not actually intending on lawyering up, I'm just going to take a file to it

    (In Bristol it's actually a charity called Lifecycle that administers the waiting list and payments, but the city council that installs them)

  • There we go, bit of MIG wire. As soon as I heard the rack suggestion, I was like, yep for sure

  • I’m having some issues with reinstalling a GRX 812 rear derailleur that previously worked flawlessly.
    The barrel adjuster seems to not move in or out of the derailleur threading. I can spin and spin the adjuster but it’s not adding tension to the cable.
    With no cable in the adjuster, the adjuster can be screwed in and out with ease. The adjuster is new, unwrapped it just now.
    The rd will shift up from the bottom sprocket with two clicks, then shifts up a gear with one click. It then shifts down into the bottom one with two clicks.
    I know I need more tension but I’m stumped as to why this barrel adjuster is playing up?

  • You have a kink in the cable, that loop isn't right.

  • Any tips for a decent and affordable Barb press?

  • I trimmed the rear cable outer down but still the same issue. You reckon there’s a kink inside in the inner cable and that’s causing it?

  • Two yellow bits shimano gave you, strong pliers and a hammer

  • Yes have been doing that for while now, but always feels a bit fiddly. Have managed to source a Barb press from a local shop pretty cheap

  • Jagwire or SRAM are decent if you really need one.

  • I'll say so, try a fresh cable and flush the inner while you're at it since it is full length.

    If the issue still persists, new outer.

    Pretty much trying to isolate the issue one step at a time.

  • I have a very cheap mini velo frame which has an opening of 122mm to 124mm depending where on the horizontal dropout I take the measurement. I think that's supposed to be for a 120mm spacing. Any objections?

  • If it’s made from steel that’ll be no problem.

  • Shimano road bottom brackets.

    The old larger silver ones were fit and forget, but I think I’m on my 3rd BBR-60 (the narrower, black, ultegra level one) in as many years.

    Rotor 3d24 and torquing pre load with a torque wrench (1.5nm or whatever) so reasonably confident that I’m not too cack-handed. The bike gets ridden in every weather mind, and I do no maintenance to the bb.

    Just me? Unlucky and try again? Or are these now throw-away wearable parts rather than things you’d expect a decade out of.

  • Has your frame been faced?

    Can't say as I've noticed the smaller ones being less rel,iable on either road or mtb cranks but I always face the frame as I have the tool.

  • I've got an old set of R785(?) levers that have sat in a box since they were removed and now appear to be self-lubricating with the remnants of their hydraulic fluid.

    I presume 'wet look' levers aren't really that fashionable so any ideas for best way to clean off? Just normal degreaser and some rubby dubby in the tubby?

  • Give em a spray with alcohol then blow them off.

  • Are we still talking about brake levers?

  • Yep, faced last time or time before.

    Googling doesn’t suggest that they’re less reliable either so maybe I’ve just been unlucky

  • Just normal degreaser and some rubby dubby in the tubby?

    As chiroshi says Isopropyl Alcohol will shift mineral oil nicely. Or petrol, if you want to go smelly and old skool.

  • Lighter oil will shift heavier oil the detergent to lift the oil.

  • Sounds like teens in magaluf

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Mechanics and Fixing Any Questions Answered

Posted by Avatar for OmarLittle @OmarLittle

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