Mechanics and Fixing Any Questions Answered

Nothing that I can see now, but that does make sense as to how they were retained. They definitely didn't come apart this easily before. Will have a hunt and see if I can find the hub spec.

Mavics used to do that after a while. You could take them off and do whatever and then all of a sudden you couldn’t and the caps would fall out as soon as you look at them. Later ones are fine.

A bit of that green Loctite (the bearing retention compound) should keep errant end caps in place

However a few movements back and forth of the cage and it goes all tight again. So I back off the bolt and it’s nice and springy again. But again a few movements back and forth of the cage and it goes all tight.

It’s definitely being caused by the clutch

The solution here may well also be Loctite - disassembly would've significantly reduced the effectiveness of any factory compound. Assuming of course there isn't a proper locknut or something you've missed. You can tell I know fuck-all about derailer clutches

Hmm I've looked at a few guides to service shimano clutches, none of them mention locktite. There was no locktite breaking crack when I disassembled either. There's a roller bearing that sits on the outside of the p-axle, that the clutch pushes down on when engaged. I assume it isn't working properly and that's why it is tightening. I just don't know what has caused it to stop working.

Best place in uk to get a carbon fork repainted? Carbon Bike Repair in Kingston have quoted £300 + VAT

Anyone know a way to get a stubborn hose/ olive out of a brake lever?

Fitted a new brakeset the other day (Shimano MT401) and stupidly ordered Euro orientation - Front is Left and Rear is Right.

When I worked in a bike shop we used to swap these pretty frequently on new bikes - disconnect hose from lever and connect it to the other.

Left lever (front brake hose) came out easily, with no fluid lost, but can't for the life of me get the rear hose out of the lever.

I'm riding with reveres brakes for now, but would rather switch these, and avoid problems down the line.

Side note: I could try and return them, but I have scratched up the calliper bodies and scraped the hoses a bit during fitting...

Pull harder.

I think I had one where I had to put the hose in a vice with the little yellow blocks to avoid crushing in and yank on the lever pretty fucking hard, maybe stretched the hose a bit but it needed shortening anyway.

I've got a Cane Creek 40/56 headset the upper bearing is smooth but need to replace the bottom. Do the bearings pop out of the cup so I can just get a bearing kit or is the bearing fixed in place requiring a complete lower assembly?

2 Attachments

Bearing pops out.

Thought so, will try harder

Nice one cheers 👍

Is getting an older crankset, maybe square taper, to work with a 148mm boost rear end going to be a total pita?

I’m currently using a non boost Zee crankset with the ring in the outer position and it runs fine so I’m kinda leaning towards ‘it should be possible’ and ‘boost is just a marketing phrase’ rather than ‘I’ll die in flames’.

Chains bend, it’ll be fine.

hello! I’m trying to get the right size frame bag, the ones that allow space for bottles. the inside top tube length of my bike is 50-51cm, I found it hard to get it more exact, should I err on the short or long side? and, does anyone have any shouts for frame bags that length without spending heaps.

Smaller, because the straps take up the slack. Get one too big and it'll be forever floppy (ooh nurse).

Anyone serviced Crank Bros Stamp 7 pedals before? I've got two sets and I think they're both moving and making odd noises that mean they're probably due service (or firey death).

Fuck am I askin you lot for? :D

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H-sonnBM10I

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wgTvOpX-4XM

Never actually used the grease port on these. Spend all my time fixing Speedprays and just grinding these Stamps into my shins so fuck 'em.

Reminds me to look at servicing my DMRs

I've serviced a couple of pairs of Crank Bros Eggbeaters. They were very easy to service, with good instructions on a Crank Bros YouTube video.

New brompton with a 3 sp rear hub. The adjuster on the rear gear cable keeps loosening so the gears stop working. I've tried tightening the lock nut tight, tried putting a split washer in there. I dont really want to glue it. Should I just replace the whole part? Has anyone experienced this problem before, seems like sturmey hubs have been going for so long this can't be normal.

k great , cheers

I dont really want to glue it.

How about Loctite then

need to replace the bottom

Tried squirting in a bit of solvent and giving it a spin for a bit? Done this on headsets with great success a couple of times when replacement either wasn't an option or would take a while... Due to the typically slight oscillation rather than spinning, they tend to build up hard crud in the races between the balls which feels for all the world like a pitted cone.

I'd go so far as to say that on non-BSOs, this is probably more often the case than actual pitting.

Yeah tried that and flushed a load of crud out now it turns easier but feels rougher. Cane Creek are good for spares though so just ordering new bearings.