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• #1377
Can anyone tell me what these two feet are for? Curious about this complicated looking one on the right.. thanks
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• #1378
four feet
Top one is for edge binding
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• #1379
Oooh nice, from a Pfaff domestic.
As @pdlouche says- top one is a binding foot. A roll of bias binding threads in/out of the two uprights on far right, then into the funnel, folding over to be stitched onto a fabric edge
- two down is for zig-zag stitch; the box section allows needle to move left/right, whilst still pulling the fabric through, and also handy for other things - you can position the Pfaff needle to either far left or right, and use to edge stitch, zips, hem
- three down, I have no idea! Looks intriguing; maybe something for piping/feeding in another thread
- forth down looks like a regular foot, but offset, for accurate edge
stitching. You will need to set the needle to the right, into the
slot space, to use this
The attachment is specific for Pfaff domestic - if you should ever like to sell any on, please let me know :)
- top one is a binding foot. A roll of bias binding threads in/out of the two uprights on far right, then into the funnel, folding over to be stitched onto a fabric edge
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• #1380
known barney for a couple of years, super lovely guy and have a couple of his bits too which are top quality
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• #1381
Yeah, he's cool.
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• #1382
Much appreciated! That’s what I was hoping the top one was. Looking forward to working it out.
They came with a Singer (and are all singer branded) - is Pfaff linked to singer in some way?
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• #1383
Rack bag done, no where near perfect but am still learning loads as I go.
Zoom in to see some awful stitching on the zip, I kept hitting the pin-heads.
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• #1384
Apparently Buzz Rickson’s nor I have any idea how to sew a button on a jacket.
I grew weary of re-attaching them onto my N1 so took inspiration from my Canadian military parka and did this. In the spirit of BR’s dedication to reproduction I kept it messy.
Used a shoelace, I hope it lasts.
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• #1385
Looks great!
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• #1386
Anyone within a drive of Devizes, I’ll be selling my Singer 211G (needle feed industrial) for about £350. New Jack 513C servo motor fitted a month ago. Prefer my compound feed.
Comes on old tubular steel Singer table, I can include a new Jack tabletop if you want.
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• #1387
Bargain if genuine:
https://m.facebook.com/marketplace/item/8840972639352899/?ref=search
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• #1388
Can anyone recommend any iron-on clothing repair patches?
I know Albion do some (currently out of stock) but I wanted some black/nonbranded patches. -
• #1389
Apologies if I’ve failed to find this elsewhere on the thread but could anyone recommend a good zip supplier? I’m replacing the double zip on an otherwise indestructible T-level rucksack and I can’t find what I need (85cm double zip with closed ends). Any go-to that I’m missing? Cheers!
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• #1390
Some advice please. The cuff of one of my cardigans is unraveling. It is a 100% fine merino and I'd like to try and stop it so that I can keep using the cardigan. It doesn't need to be pretty as I only really wear it as a layer when cold. Would darning it work?
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• #1391
I think you normally darn when there's an actual hole because the yarn has snapped/worn through/been cut - that looks like the yarn has been broken just at the very end of the cuff & then it's been unravelling up the arm.
I don't know whether you've done any knitting / understand how this is constructed, but basically it's in rows going down the arm from shoulder to cuff, each loop in a row has the loop for the next row coming through it, so they hold each other place.
So the first thing I would do is put in some thread or something to stabilise the loops & stop it running any more. I've attached a photo showing where that would be.
What I've done with my own jumpers (with thicker wool than this) is to use a crotchet hook to re-knit it. This would be - remove the stabilising thread, then use the crotchet hook to pull the yarn from the next row along & recreate the loop that used to be there, putting it onto a needle. Then either stabilise it again further down or just keep going doing that until you get to the cuff. Or you get to a broken thread - then you need to look at darning.
Nb. because it looks like very thin machine-knit wool you'd be looking at very thin crotchet hook/needles & a very fiddly job - but I reckon totally possible with patience & dexterity?
Or you could cut out that whole section & darn it??
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• #1392
I had a random inspiration from @UnclePete and their cycling caps thread (https://www.lfgss.com/conversations/401264/) and decided I wanted to give making a cap a go.
My mam is a big crafter and quilting is one of her major areas so knowing I was back home this weekend I had a look for patterns online with a plan to make one with guidance and all of her gear.
I ended up with this Wizard Works pattern that they looked to have put out during Covid lockdowns and I’m pretty chuffed with the outcome - https://www.wizard.works/make-it-at-home/make-it-at-home-cycling-cap/
Hope to make a few more with my mates machine when back in London and look at some other stuff as well as quite enjoyed it.
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• #1393
Thanks for this. I'll investigate and see what I can. I don't have much sewing experience sadly.
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• #1394
here's a video
of what I was trying to describe about re-building it (your thing looks like all "knit stitches" so don't worry about "purl stitches") - but obviously it's going to be a lot more fiddly as the yarn is so thin compared to the video
https://www.instagram.com/bitsbybe
A lovely bloke called Barney has been making some nice things in Manchester for a while, he's got some more things on the way, might be off interest. Stopped by a launch event thing he had at Idle Hands on Friday.
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