Home DIY

Anyone have some old pine floorboards going? Will just ask on Facebook marketplace but just wondered on here

Toothed ‘scutch’ chisel will destroy that shit.

Yeah - needs a scutch. It's still going to wreck the brick underneath though, if it's London stock. Ask me how i know...

I’ve used this kind of thing in the past.

[https://www.amazon.co.uk/Waterproof-Cable-Connector-Zevnico-Connectors/dp/B0B24D3KSB/ref=sr_1_3_sspa?

2 pole versions are available.

So, I bought a load of old Melody Makers and want to do the wall on the inside of my shed with articles and pictures. I'm thinking that, as it's tongue and groove, I'll need to put a base layer underneath or else the lines will show through? Plain wallpaper or newspapers? Then glue them on one by one, and glue again over the top?

I would like to re plaster this fireplace arch and sides, should I just get someone in to do it or is getting the arch perfect diy-able? I'd imagine getting someone in to do it would be £150+.

1 Attachment

About that, but it's nearly impossible ot get anyone round for such small jobs.

Wouldn't you have to treat the soot area first - Doesn't that stuff leech through & cause plaster to blow?

DIY might be the only way, given the size of the job. At least it's a bit hidden, so you won't have to worry about it being completely flat.

Which bits do you want plastered?

If its the red bit then diy, but it might take a while and you might have to block sand to get a pro finish.

If its all of it, I'd probably pay someone.

1 Attachment

That's a good visual, I'm just thinking of the red area to make it neat. Usually I'd have a crack but unsure about the top arch where someone has butchered the existing plaster.

Stove being installed so keeping the inside as brick. Stove guy has a plasterer we can use if needed.

1 Attachment

Plasterboard it so the soot isn't an issue

Edit. Forget it as only edging it

My neighbour’s house is pissing water out of an overflow. I think they have a tank in the loft so I assume it’s coming from that. Reason I care is I think it’s causing the water that’s seeping into my basement.

It’s been sold, but the seller’s son still lives there. Seller is sending a friend round to have a look, any suggestions on what it would be? I’m not convinced the friend will be a qualified plumber.

1 Attachment

Guess; stopcock & get the plant n soil out of the guttering and downpipes
(- I wouldn't worry a second about someone who is prepared to go into the loft too have a look not being able to fix it

Because it's breaching the damp proof course. I think.

Bricks faces might come off, but is that so bad?

Defo an overflow for CH header or cold water tank. The floating stop cock on one is probably stuck.

remembering someone was going to have a go at this, I looked back this morning, it's been on your mind some time - @NotThamesWater suggests it's a little bad, repointing at best
but fkit, give it a go, might just fall of with easy persuasion and a little more taptap in places

I replastered our fire place and made a terrible job of it. Unless you’re competent or a pro plasterer don’t even bother. Plastering is an art.

For that size area you can also just buy a premix tub. Obvs more expensive £p/g but not expensive.

When we changed our fireplace surround I redid a similar size area. Before that I'd only filled picture hook holes.

It took me a million times longer than a pro - I ended up getting it "good enough" then block sanding it. But still only a couple of hours - basically 1hr either side of the drying time.

And tbh it'd been faster if I'd accepted my lack of skill and stopped the first time it was good enough, then sanded. I took this approach when I fixed our concrete porch and it went much faster. Obviously it would be great to get it right first time with smooth buttery strokes, but I don't think that's likely if you're not skilled.

It's sort of one of those jobs where if you're not skilled you need to filter any proper guides through that lense and form a strategy in step with your proficiency.

Really nice flooring.. I'm not really looking properly but I think they've already been re-plastered . And with a little care you can build the edge to a corner with powder filler (easyfil)

If you get one of these sanding rolls

plus a similar sized nice long bit of mdf then fix it with double sided tape you'll have a massive sanding block. That way you can use the surrounding flat surfaces to do the work.

Anyone tried replacing broken staircase risers and treads ? Years of repairs using right angle brackets, wedges etc from the underneath has worked so far but a few are totally knackered now.

We have this pile of shite under the stairs. I want to put shelves in on the back wall. It's a shared wall with our neighbour. At the bottom there there's a soil pipe from the bathroom, which is boxed in.

My question is should I plaster this before putting shelves up? I would be inclined to but not for any particular reason. Property is from 1890 and I have seen hints of moisture in here so I guess I would probably use lime render or something. I don't care if it looks shit.

1 Attachment

Personally, I'd get those metal shelving units and see if there is some sort of stepped variant.

Mount them a few inches away from the wall with spacers to fix them to the wall. Plus fix some strips to the back of the shelves to stop things falling.

That way you guarantee air flow and have less work.

Alternatively you could use twinslot as that has a forced gap unless you rebate it. Do the lip on the back thing though.

I was thinking I'd go with twin slot as it seems like the easiest way to get a good fit up to the stairs.

No plaster/render/skim/whatever needed then? Doing some reading I get the impression it's purely decorative on an internal wall

I think your instinct to allow free airflow is right, I'd not plaster.