Mechanics and Fixing Any Questions Answered

Ah, the forks I have aren't chromed that far.

Good luck.

I've got a sturmy archer s2 hub and now got no wheel nuts.
The pitch on the axle thread is finer (right tech term? ) than on the standard track wheel axles I've got.
Any ideas on how where to get replacements? I figure any nut that works will do, but short of trial and error in the B&Q aisle I'm struggling. And don't know how to measure it.

SA axles are traditionally 13/32” 26tpi. You won’t find those nuts from anywhere except Sturmey.

https://www.sturmey-archer.com/files/catalog/files/288/PART%20LIST%20-%20S2C.pdf

http://www.sturmey-archerheritage.com/files/view-1153.pdf

Thecycledivision stock loads of sturmey parts as a b2b, your lbs might use them but delivery is a lot if they're not planning on an order, or SJS is always a good shout.

Cheers, saved me a lot of time & frustration.

FSA No10 semi-integrated headset - so same again or is there a better one?

A cartridge bearing ZS44 headset, assuming the head tube is reamed to the right depth. The minimum ream depth for a №10 is shorter than most cartridge bearing sets, but you'd be unlucky to find the tube reamed to the bare minimum.

I'm sure I've seen people run Magura disc calipers with Shimano hydraulic brake levers - and Magura only sells one kind of brake fluid, so theoretically you could run magura rim brakes with modern shimano STIs.. Or TRP Hylix levers

Great, Thanks

I'm sure I've seen people run Magura disc calipers with Shimano hydraulic brake levers

It works

Magura only sells one kind of brake fluid

Not true in the case of rim brakes

so theoretically you could run magura rim brakes with modern shimano STIs.. Or TRP Hylix levers

Assuming the pistons in the levers are the correct size...

Interesting; thanks @MisterMikkeland @psg1ben I have a pair of GRX levers with calipers he could have ££ as well as a disc. If I can convince him a front disc rear rim brake is ok. Hmmm…

What type of connection is this?
Calliper is SRAM Rival HydroR

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They're Connectamajg

What type of connection is this?

Looks like a dry-break coupling

Thanks! Bloody complicated SRAM…

If I remember my mechanics from 40 plus years ago the bearing / races undergo fretting and not brinelling so affects top and bottom of the headset.

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fretting

Thank you, there is so much I have forgotten.

Not sure the relevance to this thread, but this is just where my thinking is heading. That the bearings on the head tube act as one so both bearings act as one. But with the bottom more prone to the lubricant not being in the right place so bottom is quicker to fail than the top.

On motor bikes, the usual head bearings are non sealed flat bearings and usually the bottom fails due to not being regreased regularly (lube not in the right place)while the top bearing usually fails due to over tightening. The usual replacement is taper bearings to elongate life.

where did you get axle kit? I've been looking for a way to hitch to the e bike with through axles

I'm going to replace the bearings in my halo back wheel, they've definitely had it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lPtOYLVNCwc

This is the official guide. It advises using a punch to wack the new bearings back in to place. My question is, couldn't one just use the cones to press the new bearings back in to place? with a 15mm spanner.

Let me know if I'm missing something here.

Or one of the old bearings.

Don't punch them in.

Wow I can't believe that didn't occur to me. Every days a school day on lfgss! Cheers

Stick the bearings in the freezer for a couple of days, when fitting pour boiling water on the hubs when fitting. Also a little bit of grease to help the bearing get in to position.

Use a socket to install the bearing.https://wheelsbyjason.com/how-to-press-wheel-bearing-into-hub-without-press/

Don’t use the cones: by just pressing against the inner race you’ll put tangential force on the ball bearings, digging into both races and risking ruining the bearing. Use the old bearing as suggested above.

Ultegra 12 speed Di2 lever to a hope rx4+ calliper.

Front brake was installed and bled without issue.

Rear brake isn't bleeding. I can push mineral oil from the calliper upwards (tested by removing calliper and checking mineral oil flows), but there's a blockage (presumably) somewhere between the lever and hose.

My plan was to remove the hose and check flow in the lever (ie. Push mineral oil through the lever and check it's coming out the lever opening), and maybe sticking a gear cable through the hydraulic hose.

Anyone had any experience clearing a blocked hose/lever before? And if I remove the hydraulic hose, but keep all the fittings in place (olive and barbs), can I then reuse it but screwing it back into the lever/calliper?

Welp, got one cone off and axle out but the other cone was somehow seized on tight. After a heap of trying, heat gunning etc, my colleague was able to wrench the other cone off but the axle had clearly had it. My suspicion is that it might have somehow bent over its 5 year life.

Annoyingly an axle kit is available from sjs for £20 plus post, plus bearings bought separately this comes to about £30. I guess it is what it is.

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I’m getting increasingly irate here. I’m changing the cage on my GRX mech to the cage from an M8000 mech, basically changing from medium cage to long cage so I can run a wide double drivetrain.

Anyway, every time I try to spin/load the cage, the hook on the spring pops up. It happened last week, I thought oh no maybe I went the wrong way accidentally without thinking. So I ordered a new one and a new gasket/seal because it completely chewed up the seal last time. Go to install it this weekend and the exact same thing it happening. I’m definitely loading the spring the right way but before I get all the way round the hooked end of the spring forces itself out and jams in between the cages. I’ve tried bending the hook in slightly so it grips better but the same thing just keeps happening. The seal is completely chewed up again. Also a photo of the spring showing it slightly bent up which has now happened to both.

What am I doing wrong?

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