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• #2052
Meanwhile - stops reading about sedum roofs - back onto sliding storage systems - have been planning to try the doubleodavey solution for ages, which is track and carriages and hooks. It is great value apart from the hooks which seem hard to find at a lower price. While searching I found https://gear-blocks.com/sliding-bicycle-storage-rack/ - integrated hooks & carriages, looks like they are 3d printed by themselves? which fits into channel strut. Has anyone come across this system and tried it? I've ordered some hooks to give it a go.
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• #2053
I made my own setup last year (used park tool hooks and industrial door rollers) but it didn't really work in our space (its too narrow, and we need to lock the bikes together which makes it awkward to move them anyway), so I've just taken it down and replaced it with regular wall hooks.
I also didn't like bikes sliding and smashing into each other, especially as pedals always somehow seem to be near to precious stanchions!
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• #2054
Could you share details on the track and rollers? Something like this would work for my garage I think
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• #2055
Could you share details on the track and rollers? Something like this would work for my garage I think
You might also find these of interest, if you can source a channel strut yourself, the've taken out the work of modding a hook/roller but maybe they cost a little more..
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/126246928758 -
• #2056
Yeah it was all series 20 from https://www.runners-uk.com
I think a 3m track and 9 roller mechanisms was around £160 in total, then Park tool hooks on top of that. Not sure how that compares to systems like RAK or if they'd be compatible.
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• #2057
Cheers both - will check them out
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• #2058
Anyone any experience of Brighton Bike Sheds?
They look reasonable value (so far as these things go) compared to other options but wondering how good quality they actually are.
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• #2059
Mine is holding up to the weather well after nearly 4 years now, no problems with quality, needs another coat of Osmo oil soon. Just bear in mind the doors are pretty easy to pop open, I've installed two van padlocks on mine to stop them trying.
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• #2060
I have one of these Squire ground achors drilled into the concrete near my front door.
https://www.squirelocks.co.uk/shop/motolok/ground-anchor.htmlWe are getting kicked out of our house in January by the landlord. I want to take this with me.
Does anyone have any tips on removing it from the concrete? Is it even possible?
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• #2061
Borrow/hire an angle grinder and cut the heads off the anchor bolts.
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• #2062
Cheers, good to hear. Did you assemble it yourself or get them to do it? For some reason I thought assembly was included in the price.
Also, did you get a green roof on it?
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• #2063
Yes assembled myself, managed to do it on my own, is pretty easy so long as you are reasonably handy.
Yes, green roof too, it is well designed, easy to install and drains freely. Obviously takes a bit of attention to get it established but has been good since. They managed to deliver the wrong size rubber membrane to start with, but they ended up getting the correct one to me same day in the end!
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• #2064
Underneath the black putty, the anchor bolts are flush with the anchor. No way am I getting an angle grinder in there?
I did not hammer a ball bearing into the hex slot at the top of each bolt though. In the forward thinking I might have to dig this up at some point in the future.
Do you think an SDS drill would be able to get them out, even though they've expanded their casings into the concrete?
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• #2065
If you've not used ball bearings, can you not just try removing the putty and undoing the bolts? Failing that, new HSS metal bit (or a few) about the size of the holes and drill out the bolts.
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• #2066
I thought the anchor bolt expansion casings would have made that impossible but i will give it a go.
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• #2067
These things
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• #2068
If the hex heads are accessible under the putty, you might well be able to undo the bolts with a decent impact driver (definitely not a single Allen key or a combi drill) but the expanding sleeves are underground forever. You'd need to get a new set of the bolts. For the hassle and cost I'd probably leave it in unless you're obliged to remove it, and fit a new one in your next place.
Edit: just seen that those exact Squire ones are quite pricey! New set of bolts to reinstall it then. M10 expanding hex bolts should be what you need.
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• #2069
If the landlord is being a twat and kicking you out why not just break the concrete if you have SDS? Fill it back in if you’re feeling really kind.
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• #2070
Little update. I was able to get three of the four out with an allen key and a long metal cylinder rod I have, my old friend Archimedes never fails to help. The bolts did not like being taken out of the expanding casings but they came eventually.
However, and I only remember this now from when the neighbour had a go with the drill - the hex slot on the fourth one is rounded out a bit. Using a long crowbar I have managed to pry the entire thing up out of the ground about an inch maybe. But it is not coming out any further than where it is now.
Next I am going to put a metal cutting blade on the reciprocating saw that I have and go through the bolt and casing that I can see between the anchor and the ground. If I lose a finger or an eye I'll invoice LFGSS.
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• #2071
Knowing what those expanding sleeves are like I'd get give it a good few squirts with plusgas - ie do it tonight, tomorrow morning, then remove in the afternoon with an impact driver.
If you don't have one, I'd get a bit extender so you can come in nice and straight from the top.
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• #2072
All done! Next place we move to, if we have a long term secure tenancy or if we can buy a place, I'll definitely be hammering those ball bearings into the tops of the bolts.
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• #2073
All, I've got a tiny little store room in my new rental and looking for storage solutions. I'm thinking of using those pedal hooks as I think I can overlap a little to maximise storage and wondering what folks experience is in overlapping bikes using the pedal hooks on one wall, about 2.5m tall? I'm guessing about 3 bikes similar to below, with the lower 2 being mostly accessible
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• #2074
I love the pedal hooks. The BB width and Q factor (and maybe pedal type) will determine how far out it falls from the wall. So you'd have a mtb on the bottom and a track bike at the top I guess... But that would only matter if they were really tight together.
You will get a lot of tyre marks on the wall, so either mitigate for that or repaint when you leave. Lots of people opt for strips of wood. Depending how hot the store room gets I think you could buy some decent 3m double sided tape and stick a thin wood batten on the wall. The hook takes the weight the tyre support just stops rotation so it doesn't need to be super strong. Then you should be able to hair drier it off when you leave.
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• #2075
I did the rollercentre option a while back, been meaning to get a good pic for ages. I bought hooks from those guys, although I bought the Lite hooks at £10 each . Still not cheap but definitely the cheapest option I could find (both for DIY carriages&hooks and ready-combined options).
I bought the strut from a local electrical wholesaler (TLC) who did delivery. 3m of 41x41 plus brackets and stops etc came in about £40 including delivery. I bought ten hooks (a few bikes +a few sets of wheels + a few spares...) so total cost about £140, and fits nicely across the back wall of the garage. Very pleased with it and just need to decide where to fit the chain mounts.
Oooh--does that mean you'll soon have lots of sweet little rooflets?