Home DIY

That's a good idea. I was wondering if there would be something like that in a gun that's easy to apply.

Don't Go running round your driveway with a caulking gun thinking it'll sort this detailing out - I'm sure there are (bullnose) edge pavers that would resolve the paving better - or any other number of questionable ideas, chipping the hard corners off or having the soil vegetation grow into it..

need to both get an electrician in and also find the money to pay him to wire up the lights and electric radiators asap. just need to work out the simplest plan of action so i can keep costs to bare minimum.

If you can do a lot of the physical wiring yourself and get a spark to do the final bits, test and sign off, then you'll likely save yourself a bit. It's not hard and given what you've done so far you're more than capable. I wired up my shed with a full ring main and lighting circuit, and I'm an idiot.

I have a wooden sash window in urgent need of renovation and wanted to check method and likely time scale with anyone who’s done this before.

So, remove lower and upper sash and tape up window with plastic.
Sand down flaking paint with coarse paper.
Fill any problem areas with wood filler (any specific filler I should source for this?), let dry and sand these areas down.
Paint with primer (bin123 or something else?)
Let dry and then 2 coats of white exterior wood paint (I’d be grateful if any specific paint recommendations).
Is this all doable in a weeeknd?

Thanks in advance

I'm wasn't wanting to say this won't work but at the time I thought it'll have you looking a bit crazy - especially using something so sticky while there's a fair bit of sand to get out of the way, if it had to be from a tube, have you ever used gripfill solvent - it's gray much thicker and cures hard so if any slips happen just leave it to go hard and then remove it

I've painted dozens but only removed as you describe once - restringing the (new) cord to the weight and fixing to the window side is a two person job

Sorry, I should’ve said - it’s a modern style sash that clips off a metal bar in the frame, so easy to remove (he says!)

Although we do also have a number of older cord style sash windows that will need looking at next year, so will almost certainly be asking how best to approach those at some point.

Cheers.

It's only really the bed boarder sections. I guess I also wondered if there was a drainage angle to it.

I also wondered if you could get some sort of fillable cartridge which you could load with some sort of grout like material.

I'm not going to get round to it any time soon. Ultimately the point about filling the cracks is to help hold the pavers. I've only topped that up as I used much less sand than before and all of the boarders are set in mortar anyway. It's just niggling when you're sweeping sand and it's pouring into the adjacent beds.

Corded ones are a lot of fun, although probably unnecessary to be dismantling them, I can't even remember why we did..
I'll have to stand back from the modern one, I can't fully imagine it or it's 'problems' - I'd err on the side of trying to leave them in, they come painted in places where traditionally they wouldn't be, and functionally can be more problematic (additional draft excluders are annoying) and if they have spiral spring balance? they just seizes up, but can be replaced without full removal [three screws I think] - I'm out and could be wrong again! But a photo may help
This is said on it not being normal to paint exterior and interior at the same time

that's what I want to do ideally, but i gather it's quite hard to find a spark willing to do that these days.

the other option was get them to put in one or two sockets on each ring (office sockets ring, electric radiator ring and workshop sockets) and wire up just the ceiling lights in my office and I add the rest onto them later myself. all the cabling is going to be surface mounted anyways.

Thanks. My thought about removing it to sand and paint is that access from outside is tricky as it’s higher than I’d want to work on a ladder.
In terms of the issues, it’s simply not been painted in a long time by the looks of it and the existing paint is in terrible shape with exposed wood showing that’s exposed to water.

It pissed down with rain all over my repair care fix on the window frame, its been 3+ hours and it’s still tacky. I’m getting the feeling that it’s fucked.

Fucking DIY…

In terms of being done in a weekend, yes achievable with fast curing fillers, but as moog is saying above make that weekend June July - it may also be fairer to the timber that at the moment is suffering damp and possible water expansion
[Edit I'm obviously going off absolute blind here, but if it can be placed in good situ, the cost of hiring a portable tower Vs the ball ache of removing & replacing beading, is //a no-brainer// well worth considering]

Filling nail head holes in raw wood; is it best too prime the wood then fill or fill then prime? Or does it make f all difference?

There's a taught method of knot stop prime fill, or something like that - but forget it, the takeaway thing is use knotting (two coats, bin or shellac, on the knots) and don't use a water base (wall) filler on wood

Brilliant, thanks!

I've been renovating sashes to a greater or lesser degree for 25+ years. I wouldn't trust plastic and tape, I usually use a thin plywood with some batten holding it in. Sanding down can take quite a while if there's a lot of flaking paint. You should probably use Repaircare as it's an epoxy resin that's designed for this job but the starter kit is expensive. Paint with BIN Aqua and Allcoat. I don't think it's something I would necessarily be able to get done in 2 days and I have all the tools and experience. I might also have to operate to a higher finished standard because people are paying me.

If you don't have to carry out extensive repairs and you're prepared to work long hours you might get it done in a weekend. Probably not a good idea at this time of year though.

Pictures would help to assess the likely issues.

Hello all. I am replacing the tiles in a mid century tiles table with some nice modern tiles. They are thicker than what was in there so I am removing ~3mm from the rebate.

I’ve used a half inch router bit up to the edge for accuracy. The table is veneered so I am only cutting chipboard.

Can anybody point me in the direction of a surfacing bit that will cut a bit quicker? I absolutely baffled at the choice and don’t know if I need to be spending £60 for what is pretty soft wood.

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That’s really helpful, thank you. Here’s a photo, I’m just hoping it’s not too far gone and can wait until spring next year

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My rained on Repair Care fix ended up being ok but it took 8+ hours to harden (it should have been 4 hours). I think it was the cooler temperatures which slowed it down so take this in to consideration if you’re planning a tight schedule.

Repair care goes out of date too but not like out of date you can’t use it!

It’s not always 4 hours hardening, there is potential for slight differences in dosage from the individual tube which can affect it too.

That’s not too bad. You might want to strip it to the wood, several ways to do that. Scraping, sanding, IR stripping. The knots in the cill can be a recurring problem, IR stripping would sort that out.

👍