Singular Cycles

It does look good. It's kind of funny how anything with less than about a 68 degree head angle looks kind of dorky somehow now

Hadn't seen this thread. I've got a Singular now :)

does this have a 1 inch threadless headset? Are you using a shim to get a modern stem on there?

Yeah there's a shim. Looks ok with a slim stem I think. This is a kalloy of some sort.

Picked this up today. Seller clearly looked after it. Same shim system mentioned above

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Beautiful! That's a great buy. Sam always teases us with mention of a new Osprey with canti brakes. I'll buy one for sure.

Peregrine is done at last. 2/3 of my bikes are now singulars

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do you know what size mudguards does the osprey take? 45 too big? https://velo-orange.com/collections/700c-fenders/products/vo-45mm-stainless-fenders-700c

When using 700C or 650B?

If you're using 700c then 45mm will fit through at the rear with a bit of manipulation/crimping at the BB area, but I think you'd struggle to get the 45mm ones through the fork crown without some serious crimping!

Mine is using VO 38mm (with a bit of spreading to about 40mm while keeping the radius in check) for 700C and gives adequate clearance with 28mm tyres.

If you're going 650B then the 45mm ones do work as the ~10mm drop for where they guards will need to sit brings them down to a slightly wider bit of the fork.

700c. Thanks this is helpful

wdym by a bit of spreading to keep the radius in check?

with Steel and Alu guards the way you adjust the guards to fit the radius of the tyre for better fit is by either squeezing or spreading the guard.

Squeezing the guard will increase the radius
Spreading the guard will decrease the radius

From the factory they rarely follow the radius of a wheel perfectly, so some adjustment is needed. You can often do a bit more int he way of manipulation to get a bit more/less clearance as you desire too.

With plastic guards you'd either do this with a heat gun or pull them into shape as best you can with the stays, but if you do that on metal guards they'll be sitting under tension and will crack a lot sooner. You have to adjust them to fit properly without using the stays to get them in shape, the stays should literally just do that, keep the guard mounted where it's placed without holding them under tension.

With the 38mm VO guards I spread them to about 40mm along most of the guard, gave me a bit more clearance width wise and to follow the tyre properly with an even gap around the tyre.

Not my site, but this guy did a good write up of the procedures:

https://somervillebikes.wordpress.com/2020/03/01/how-to-install-metal-fenders-part-i-achieving-a-proper-arc-radius/

Bought from classifieds a couple of weeks ago, swapped out some bits, fitted a kids seat bracket and Pizza Rack; the Peregrine makes a great dad bike IMO.

Bargain pickup (just read the thread) enjoy

It's Puffin season!

Does anyone run a peregrine 2x? My front shifting goes rubbish after a wet ride and my lbs said water is getting in and sitting in the housing, corroding the cable

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Yup, I do, and I have not had any issues since I built it ~2 years ago and I've ridden it through two filthy winters, but I was sure to liberally fill the last ferrule with waterproof (proper marine stuff) grease before fitting as it was obvious that something there water was going to drain down into that loop under the BB.

Probably helps that I run full guards & flaps though so I'm not getting as much crap sprayed at the cable compared to you. Even if you're not going to run guards t might be worthwhile making a mini shield to protect that cable stop area, you could just use a bit of plastic bottle or some other flexible plastic and bolt on the chainstay bridge, even on the inside, and then ziptie/stick it to the seat tube. It wouldn't be perfect but anything to reduce the spray going at that cable exit would help.

Other options are to run one of those ferrules with a built in extension and then slip another rubber seal over the end, or run an unlined outer and run a full length of liner all the way up to the front derailleur clamp.

can vouch for matt riding almost exclusively through absolute slop, george - prob helps he's an excellent mechanic (with a shed to be envied). Can have a rummage for some gore ride on bits and bobs which might help and have a big tub of dura ace grease - might not deal with the salt though.

Might a couple of the little rubber sheathes that cover the cable between the arms on a v brake help keep the slop off? I've seen someone on here solve a similar problem with cable disc brakes using that solution but maybe there's too much exposed cable here.

You make me sound like some kind of pig-in-shit monster :-)

V-brake bellows could also work but the issue you’ll have is you need ‘something’ to make a decent seal at the cable stop, like a ferrule with an extension, or the water will still get in. Still better than nowt though and enough grease at the cable stop might do it !

The best solution for me has been full inner liner up to the cable clamp like this (different bike), and then seal the end of the liner onto the cable with grease just below the clamp, it leaves minimal surface to collect water on and that way even if water trickles down the outside of the liner into the ferrule it doesn’t affect the actual friction surface as that’s sealed all the way from mech to shifter

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To be fair, there's little alternative on devon lanes and it did mean you and Anja and Ed quickly educated me on mudguard flap etiquette!

thanks for the suggestions all

Saw this in person in a botley park then happened upon this thread. Nice bike!