Mechanics and Fixing Any Questions Answered

Can I swap the chainring on Middleburn cranks? Anyone got something bigger than this 32T?

Longer term I'll probably ditch these and stick GRX 1x on here with outboard SHimano cheapo bb

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Can I swap the chainring on Middleburn cranks? Anyone got something bigger than this 32T?

Yes, BETD are the OE supplier, up to 38T. They're pricey enough that you might as well swap the cranks now.

Thanks.

Now to find a 165mm GRX 1x and flog the Middlesickburns

I want replace my QR (front 100mm / rear 135mm) with hex skewers. What are alternatives for Halo Hex Key Skewer Set? Or are those best?

If you're looking for security, shimano skewers + good locks used well are best, followed by pitlock if you want to minimize your carry weight.

I dunno if you can still get them, but PZ Racing did some anti-theft skewers which used like a little aluminium cone wrench you could put on your keyring. I got a couple of sets not for the anti-theft aspect, but because they're the sexiest skewers I've seen, with just a hemisphere on each end, with slots in one side.

Security is not important in this case - the exchange is purely aesthetic.

OK, I'm finally coming round to the idea I'll never get a reasonably priced Ciocc chromed fork, so I need to cut down the one I have, which has far too long a steerer with the threads way too high. I'm thinking of cutting it down so it becomes a threadless fork then buying a 1" to 1 1/8" adapter for a stem with a slight incline. As well as the adapter and the new stem, presumably I'll need to buy a 1" threadless headset, right? And check that comes with a starnut?

Cheers.

a 1" threadless headset, right? And check that comes with a starnut?

I've never seen one which doesn't, but people must have loads of unused ones in their parts bins so you'll be able to get one easily enough.

More headset questions.

Isn't it normal that the bottom and crown races are the ones that get indexed on a headset.

What would cause the top cap/race to index?

Iirc fretting is associated with vibration which affects all the bearing surfaces ?

Too much preload

Is there any way to run Magura hydro rim brakes with drop bar levers? Or am I going to have to suggest Surly corner or some other alt bar to my colleague? The XTRs on their touring bike aren’t cutting it any longer when they are fully loaded. My idea of just packing less didn’t go down well.

Not entirely clear what you are currently running (XTR disc?) or what you're trying to achieve (more power?)

Biggest increase in power would come from larger rotors or different pad compound, then brakes with larger pistons and smaller master cylinder

The answer is never Magura anything, especially rim brake

Where would you look if you wanted to buy a good amount of 10 or 20mm 1 1/8" headset spacers?

For 1-20 pieces, winstanleys. 21-50, ebay. For >50, Aliexpress.

21-50, ebay

You'd think...

So far the best I've found is 10 x 5mm spacers which if I buy 3 packs, works out to around 62p a spacer. The listing says there's another price break at 4+ packs but it doesn't actually get applied if you add 4 or 5 packs to the basket.

Lots of listings for packs that have a selection of sizes 2 - 20mm, quite a few that show a stack of a good number of spacers in different sizes but you have to choose the size you want and nowhere does it tell you how many you're actually getting.

Might try aliexpress.

I actually have quite a lot but they are all different and I hate the different external diameters when you're trying to make a decent stack.

Ok, bit of a dredge, but what would be the #testerapproved headset for a Boardman Road Sport? Which I believe came with an FSA No10 semi-integrated headset - so same again or is there a better one?

Sorry all I’ll start again.
It’s not me, honestly.
My colleague has a Thorn touring bike with a Rolhof rim brake rear hub. He wants better brakes. So far he has gone from cantilevers to V brakes and is currently using XTRs with a pair of travel agents for the drop bar levers. They weren’t really up to his last trip from Norwich to Norway so he wants better brakes. He’s off over the alps next year and wants to stop whilst carrying the contents of his flat (It’s safe to say he doesn’t travel light!)
He likes the idea of Magura hydro rim brakes and will not be dissuaded. He has them on his eDutch bike and thinks they are great.
I suggested a hydro disc on the front, as the bouncy fork has a mount and the best pads he can get with compressionless housing on the rear, but he is not sold on the idea.
So other than the 100 or so pairs of Magura drop bar levers that change hands for big money is there a way to run Magura hydro rim brakes with curly bars?
Thank you please.

Try to find one of these ?

https://road.cc/content/review/93070-hope-v-twin-hydraulic-disc-brake-converter

No idea if it'll work with Magura though

.

What is to stop you getting the fork cut and re threaded? Or would you prefer to go threadless.

Ask as I'm having that dilemma.

It's a chromed fork all the way up to where the current threads are and I'm told that's a no-no when it comes to re-threading. Plus, I think I want to raise the front end a bit with an upward-sloping aheadset and get a stem that'll accept thicker bars.

Not arguing, but from (very) limited experience usually just the bottom on a ball bearing races. As the top bearing assemblies are pushed apart while the bottoms pushed together hence the indexing. Or is that wrong?

@TooTallTim wouldn't that cause indexing on both races, not just the top? Have no idea of the cause just trying to figure out so I don't cause this in the future. As I know little of the bikes past, this is a more academic.

Thank you for replying.