Home DIY

One wall dies ^

Another wall is born \/

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i was intending to go 400 centres on the studs but i marked it up on 300 yesterday before i realised my mistake and then i was just not fully awake first thing and cut my spacers 260 instead 360. was 4 studs in before i realised.

luckily it all still adds up and my plan to chuck a full sheet of 18mm ply up over it won't be affected at all, thankfully i ordered spare studs though. i shouldn't have any issues at all hanging stuff off it after as well

gonna get this half of the wall boarded up tomorrow so i can put all the things in my workshop back and make it useable again, then i can get started on the door frame and figuring out how to dogleg the wall back 20cm as the top beam i'm attached to runs straight above the window on the other end and i dont want to overlap the glass with the wall.

Has anyone got, mostly an opinion on, the pocketbook of regs. ? I'd put electric and plumbing on a different plane - but are they a good reference to work from? [Sure I've said it before but typing this is easier than buying a version]

I have about 3kg of mapei ultra colour plus 114 grout going spare if anyone wants it from SE6?

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Does anyone have a scrap (600 x 400ish min) of 12.5mm plasterboard going spare? Need to patch a hole and don't want to have to buy a full sheet and dispose of most of it? Similarly, if anyone has scraps of PIR hit me up, want to insulate our loft hatch. Can offer cash/beer/bike bits/tools in exchange!

If noone picks up , building suppliers have damaged sheets that they should be willing to let you cut off a foot or two for a couple of quid (I've only done this in wicks, but assume plasterboard gets damaged everywhere)

Whereabouts are you, there’s a few decent sized bits of PB in the garage, should be a mix of 12 and 9.
Also have a full sheet of Kingspan K118 insulated plasterboard in 65(77total) and a sheet of 35 (47 total) if anyone wants a mini insulation project.
I’m in Crystal Palace.

Oh great, I'm Nunhead so will give you a DM.

This forum is ace.

inspired by this, I got picked up a Friedland 954 off ebay. Arrived today - lovely copper coloured metal disc. Much bigger than I thought!

Should hopefully get it wired in and tested shortly.

Nice. On the size - it's a statement doorbell haha

Any recommendation on good qulity water based wood varnish for new pine wood? We are replacing all the skirting boards in the house and can't decide on which brand of varnish to get that won't go yellow in a few years time. Not keen on oil based.

If you don’t want yellow you probably don’t want pine.

Recommended remedy/stopgap fixes for spalled bricks? ‘Fill’ the faces with mortar? Leave and use some kind of paint-on waterproofer?

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Rotten window frame fixing - any pointers greatly appreciated. Maybe @Airhead if you have time to pass on some expert knowledge.

I patched up a small rotten section a few years ago with hardener and filler but looks like I’m now paying the price for not addressing the issue properly.

My plan is to use a multi-tool (is the cheapo Screwfix Titan model good enough for this?) to cut out the sections on the base and side panels then patch in new hardwood sections.

I’m a member of the South London Makerspace so I’m hoping to find some small pieces in the woodshed scrap bin. Are there any wood species that I should use/avoid? I’ll have to get the basic shaping done in the workshop then will get the final fit done at home. I don’t have any planes at home but hopefully a bit of chisel/mutli-tool work will suffice.

Any paint recommendations for finishing? I think last time I used Zinsser Permawhite.

Timing isn’t great with the rain coming but hopefully it won’t take more than a weekend to complete.

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Repair care products seem to be to go product these days have seen it used a few times, and looks great. Can't comment on the longevity of it but I'm sure it holds up well if correctly applied.

You might not need to remove as much as you think.

It will survive a nuclear apocalypse, but rotting timber infected with fungus will rot

Based on what I can see from the photo it looks pretty decent.

Remove the beading completely and replace the whole pieces, not worth splicing anything in for the cost of complete pieces.

If you use repaircare you can just cut out any rotten wood and use soft or hardwood pieces to save on the resin. It's probably worth the price of the starter kit to splice some hardwood in with the resin.

Paint with Zinsser Aqua BIN primer and Allcoat. I tend to double up on primer/undercoat and top coat so 4 coats 2 of each.

Thanks for this, all seems straightforward.

Would you use undersized pieces of wood then cover everything in repair care? Or should I get the wood as close to a good fit as I can then just fill the small gaps with repair care?

Edit - I watched a few videos and I think I’ve got a pretty good idea of how it works. I’ll aim for 10mm gaps between my new timber and the existing and finish the outer surfaces with epoxy ready for sanding/painting.

It’s the ‘waterproofing’ that’s causing the spalling in the first place; the cement-based mortar is making the moisture wick out of the brick faces.

Get it re-pointed with lime mortar, and replace heavily damaged bricks.

Re: previous questions about bay window ceilings and curtains - I ended up just mounting the curtains on the wall as the bay ceiling looks like it will just fall down, and thats a job attached to replacing the windows in there, which is a problem for a few years time.

Sidenote - I hate DIY. Why is nothing as easy as it's meant to be? Doesn't matter how much prep, I always get fucked by something.

Totally right, solid point for fixing, there can often be no freeze or wall above the window architrave - what the pelmit is or will do is a semi boxing in construction providing a 'false' ceiling and fixing point held with more solid brackets - do hope they got it sorted ...
I've spent about four days trying to find a closing shutting mechanism similar to this, it's time and investment I can't charge for but there's no point to just go over shoddy deficit finishings - joke is this could be the right thing first time

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Colour help please and thank you…

What light colour goes with Craig and Rose French Turquoise?

This is it on the wall:

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I’m currently painting the other side with C&R Barony which’s a very light purple ish grey. I don’t think it matches. It’s also a complete cunt to paint nicely.

Thoughts?

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