Wheelbuilding / Wheel Building / Wheel build help

DTSwiss do some nice but pricey for big boy tyres.

What’s consensus on a 26”, all black, rim brake wheelset for a MGOOF 80’s/90’s MTB build that isn’t going to break the bank?

Breaking the bank depends on who you bank with, but Halo White Line Classic?

https://www.halowheels.com/shop/wheels/road/white-line/white-line-deore-26-wheels/

Noticed recently that a wheel I have is built incorrectly (by the factory). Is it safe enough to ride like this, i.e not weaker than if they crossed correctly?

To clarify the issue, the outside spoke does not cross under the inner one at any point.

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Is it safe enough to ride like this, i.e not weaker than if they crossed correctly?

It's fine. Interlacing doesn't materially affect the strength or stiffness of the wheel, it just has a very small effect on redistribution of stresses under load and provides an additional constraint on how stuff moves when strained. Many factory wheels are not interlaced by design.

Thanks and phew, glad to hear as I have an upcoming trip and was considering relacing the affected spokes.

it just has a very small effect on redistribution of stresses under load and provides an additional constraint on how stuff moves when strained

Any pointers as to where I can read about this? I'd like to understand a bit more. Cheers

Any pointers as to where I can read about this?

Jobst Brandt explains why wheels were traditionally interlaced and how, I can't remember how much he goes into the scale of the effects. Damon Rinard did the analysis for Jobst on how the even more robust interconnection at the crossing by tieing and soldering makes a negligible difference.

Long story short, the biggest effect is it somewhat complicates making the tension even. Not that hard to take into account though.

The tieing and soldering is supposedly a hangover from the penny-farthing days when a broken spoke could be quite the hazard. The tradition continued because it seemed possibly worthwhile, until someone applied some empiricism.

I'm just chucking this question in here as it might get more eyes. I will need a semi regular supply of solid axle 36h disc hubs but can't find a reliable source.

https://www.lfgss.com/conversations/400531/

Shimano and replace the axle? It's what I do for polo wheels.

I did that on the last build but the axles are thinner than I'm comfortable with. I'd like 9.5mm/ 3/8" at least.
10mm axle and sealed cartridge bearings is the dream

I think some of the wheels thecycledivision knock out as basic replacements are 36h disc with a solid axle and cartridge bearings, and they usually list spares including just the hubs. I think they're ok for setting up trade accounts, but delivery is pricey on small orders.

Actually, quick browse looks like if they ever did those, they no longer do.

Yeah tried them. Do Novatec not have any kind of official distribution in the UK?
Where the wheelbuilders at

Building less niche wheels.

Pretty sure the Deore hubs I use need M10 axles.

It's only front hubs I'm interested in. Preferably 6 bolt

Ah you know what, the M756 does have a 10mm axle. I might just go for this option for now.
And like a right genius I think I did exactly that axle swap for my mini velo about 3 years ago. 😅

Deore.
10mm axle.
6 bolt.
Front.

https://dassets.shimano.com/content/dam/global/cg1SHICCycling/final/ev/ev/EV-HB-M475-2197D.pdf

I think M525 is about as crusty as my supplier is offering but the XT I mentioned above also has a 10mm axle so problem sort of solved for now. Thanks

I think that XT hub is on the front of my bike with a 10mm nutted axle right now.

Don't, I literally did this exact swap a few years ago and forgot. I've got a lot going on 😅

Gonna build up some new disc road wheels soon, likely 40mm China carbon on either Hope Pro 5 or DT Swiss 180/240.

I'm debating whether to use asymmetric rims or not. I've built a 38mm deep rear one with asymmetric rim before, but it seems deeper than that the benefits would be less, as they're so stiff anyway.

Asymmetric rear, symmetric front? Asymmetric f+r?

Assymmetric front and rear will build the strongest wheels. The assymmetry will help compensate for the dish on the rear wheel caused by the cassette and by the disk mount on the front wheel. Not necessary, but all other things being equal you might as well.

it seems deeper than that the benefits would be less

I wouldn't say so - the deeper your rims, the more angle on the spokes, which will exaggerate the difference in angle.

Off-centre rims are basically a free lunch, giving you a significantly stronger wheel with little to no weight penalty. The only reason I could imagine not to use one is if the wheel is triplet laced and it would make the half-spoked side tighter than the double-spoked side, but I'm not sure it makes enough difference to do that.